2014年7月31日星期四

Swiss Army “New” Original Watch

Swiss Army New Original Watch   watch releases
1989 Swiss Army releases their first timepiece. It is called the Original. I have no idea if it was originally called the original. That would be ironic, sort of. It is certainly an icon though. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Everyone has seen this watch. Either on someone’s wrist, in a store, or just online. This is the original Swiss Army watch design… OK, I need to stop saying “original.”

The great thing about the Original is that it is still made and sold today. Holy crap, is this the VW Beetle of timepieces? In a sense it sort of is. Today the original Original retails for about $195 (a bit cheaper online) and still keeps active types happy with its 37mm wide nylon fiber case and easy to read dial with iconic red bezel. Wow, I am suddenly nostalgic for the early 1990s.

Now in 2011 the Victorinox Swiss Army Original watch is back. No, not exactly the same watch, but the new Original, that I think is technically still called the Original. What do we call the original Original? Swiss Army, why do you confuse us so? With the first Original still being sold, just call the new one… something else. OK?

The new Original is pretty nice actually being Swiss Army’s new entry level offering. It is a tool watch with some fashion sense and it is rather affordable being under $300. Up from the original’s 37mm wide case, the modern version is 40mm wide in a nylon fiber case with a colored aluminum bezel. The case is water resistant to 100 meters and finally has a properly sized crown. Pretty sure you get a mineral crystal at this level of Swiss army watch investment, but I could be wrong.


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You’ll notice that Swiss Army matches the bezel color on the dial which is appealing. The dials are brushed metal and have stencil cut style hour markers that add a lot of visual interest. The hands are easy to see and the right size. In contrast to the first original the dial is more sporty and masculine, but feels a bit less “boyish.” It just wouldn’t be a Swiss Army watch without the inner ring of numerals for the 24 hour time scale.

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2014年7月29日星期二

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch   watch releases

Christopher Ward really does release a lot of new timepieces each year. A few of them are real winners in my opinion. One of those which is interesting is this new C9 Harrison Jumping Hour watch, which is actually the most expensive watch Christopher Ward has every offered at $1,585. Not for everyone,http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html this is a great piece for those who have been fascinated by jumping hour complications - one of the first types of watches to experiment with digital displays.

A jumping hour watch basically has a disc with numerals on it for the hour. This disc "jumps" each hour to show the correct hour digitally. The minutes are still indicated via a traditional analog hand. The idea of this watch is to improve legibility by reducing the confusion that can occur from having two hands to read. The primary feature here is the "jumping" disc which does not slowly move from one hour to another (but rather jumps a whole disc position).

For their jumping hour watch Christopher Ward uses a specially modified Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic with a module they call the JJ001. This means it should work well being based on a reliable work-horse movement. Under the guilloche machine engraved dial sits a large disc that displays the hour indicators using Roman numerals - you usually don't see that as they are often done with Arabic numerals.

Christopher Ward uses a 43mm wide steel case for the C6 Harrison. The case is brushed with a rounded and polished bezel. The dial design is good, with little to distract you, but enough decorative elements to keep it visually appealing. The interesting mixture of modern and classic design elements on the dial is also a welcome refresh given that most watches of this nature are stuck in the past when it comes to looks. Initially the C9 will be available with the silvered dial matched to a Louisiana alligator strap. The watch will also be a limited edition. 

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2014年7月27日星期日

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches   watch releases
For a while I was talking to Giles Ellis as he was in the midst of starting a watch brand. It was interesting to see yet another independent watch brand thrust themselves along supported by one enthusiastic founder faced with a number of challenges. Ellis, and Englishman, wanted a watch that reflected his tastes and ideals.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html For him Schofield is a true Gentleman's brand and offers the types of watches he wants to hear. He has great admiration for both the historic and contemporary English watch makers that are helping to bring horological street cred back to the UK.

Schofield's first pieces are called the Signalman. Two watches, both limited editions, that are offered in a polished steel or matte DLC coated black steel case. The case is pretty interesting and unfortunately doesn't come across super well in these images. I will try to do some hands-on stuff in the future. It is 44mm wide and produced locally in Britain.  While not a diver per se, the watch is water resistant to 500 meters and has a AR coated sapphire crystal.

Signalman refers to a lighthouse. There is actually an engraving of one on the rear of the watch. The shape of the case as I recall is based on a special light used in a powerful lighthouse in England. The dial of the Signalman pieces are well done, and I think Giles spent due time polishing the design. Hands are a good length and it is very legible. There is applied SuperLumiNova for lume.

Not wanting to offer a simple three-hand dialed watch to start, the Signalman GMT watch is imbued with both a subsidiary GMT hand as well as a power reserve indicator (and the date). Schofield nicely designed the power reserve indicator to look linear - something I admire as I tend to not like most of those fan-shaped indicators that can screw up the look of an otherwise balanced dial. Symmetry is king here, and I am a loyal servant of that rule.


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Powering the Signalman GMT is a Swiss Soprod caliber 9335 automatic movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and I believe the GMT hand is adjusted in one hour increments with an inset case pusher. One of Schofield's intended special offerings is a lot of nice straps. They are 24mm wide and will come in a host of styles. Both limited edition pieces the Signalman GMT will be limited to 300 pieces while the DLC version will be limited to 100 pieces. More models to come after that as I understand. Prices will be 2,465 and 2,765 British Pounds (plus VAT if applicable). The brand will be showing at the Salon QP where they will be officially launched.

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2014年7月24日星期四

Fiona Krüger Memento Mori Skull Watch


Fiona Krüger Memento Mori Skull Watch   watch releases
There are skull watches and then there are skull watches like this. Looking like a Mexican "Day of the Dead special" (Dia de Los Muertos), this mechanical skull-shaped watch is full of personality and design talent. Right now it is a one-of-a-kind watch, but there are plans for production in the near future. The watch was designed by Fiona Krüger while she was a design student at the ECAL school in Switzerland (University of art and design Lausanne). Apparently I need to credit both her and the school as she designed the watch while there.

"Memento Mori" isn't a name that hasn't been used before, but a design like this is cool and unique.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html The watch case is literally shaped like a skull. This one has been hand-engraved in solid sterling silver (also the crown). Not sure of the size, but it does not look too small or too large. Interesting touches include the traditional style blued-steel hands and aviator style crown. That combo looks inspired from Peter Speake Marin if you ask me.

The dial itself is where all the fun is. It is a combination of carved, laser-cut, colored, and polished elements that make up the decorative skull motif. The dial materials are gold and rhodium plated brass. The perlage polished plate that makes up the teeth is neat. This is a very interesting combination between designer and mechanical elements. Even the caseback is cool.

Fiona Krüger needed to use a specially cut mineral crystal for this piece because a sapphire one custom-cut for the skull shape would have been too pricey. Though if it makes it to production I am sure they will strive for a sapphire crystal. Inside of the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Attached to the watch is a blue calf leather strap with a silver buckle.

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I love the creativity of stuff like this and am happy that Fiona Krüger is striving to make it a reality. On her website (link above) you can see more images as well as concept art while designing the Memento Mori watch.Replica Tag Heuer monaco watches, Fiona Krüger is also not sure about the price at this time, but I hope it will be relatively affordable.

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2014年7月22日星期二

Haldimann H9 Reduction Watch

Haldimann H9 Reduction Watch   watch releases

I thoroughly debated on whether or not I should even cover this "watch." It is from a brand called Haldimann - eponymously named after the watch maker Beat Haldimann, and I think the man is playing a rather cruel joke on watch lovers. One press release I saw on the watch wasn't a press release at all, but a rather diplomatic article written by a Swiss journalist based on his reaction to the watch. As a timepiece this item is utterly indefensible - but optimistically creative types will claim that it is some manner of art.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This latter description is probably the kindest thing you can say about this horological insult. I wonder whether or not Beat will next release a pile of screws and gears and call it the "H10 Potential."

Haldimann's H9 watch is called the "Reduction," but to me it is the Revulsion. The watch is "reduced" to a useless tragedy. I should have seen this coming, but perhaps never expected his audacity to go this far. And by audacity I mean it in the American sense... "boldly rude." Please remember that my European friends as you plaster this term all over your speeches and releases. The Haldimann H8 Sculptura watch that preceded the H9 was a step in this direction. The piece (seen below), displayed a centrally mounted tourbillon without an indicator of time. While as a watch it was worthless, it did have some value as a fun thing to look at. I mean that is sort of the point of tourbillon complications - to just see them spinning around. There was a delicate elegance to the H8 that almost made you forgive its rather seditious incompatibility with what watches are all about.

The H9 on the other hand is something entirely futile. It is a luxury watch with a totally opaque sapphire crystal. Let me explain in case the idea isn't clear. Haldimann offers the H9 in a 39mm or 42mm wide solid platinum case. The movement is a nicely made caliber H.Zen-1 manually wound movement with a triple-barrel flying tourbillon... and it is hand engraved. Unlike the H8 it does have and hour and minute hand. Beat's credibility as a watch maker should be enough to ensure that the movement is nicely made. Looking back on earlier "H" collection watches you can see what he is capable of. So after all that he sticks a totally non-transparent black colored domed sapphire crystal over the dial - making it completely obstructed.

Just think about that for a minute. You know, in the luxury watch industry there is the concept of stealth wealth, as well as the concept of hidden luxury that is displayed only to the person wearing the watch. These are meant for connoisseurs who don't wish to flaunt their wealth or items. This watch takes that concept further than it was ever meant to go. Beat will tell you "well you can hear the movement operating through the case." OK, that is cool. So if you wanted to make an art watch that has an opaque crystal where you can only hear the watch working, then I suggest you throw in the most basic of mechanical movements rather than something you actually want to see. According to the brand, "time can thus be imagined, dreamed, or invented." I just threw up in my mouth a little bit - this watch retails for over 150,000 Swiss Francs.


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Any one who wears this watch has got to be like the title character in the Emperor's New Clothes. Haldimann will have totally tricked them into thinking that this is some meaningful piece of art and a poetic testament to the ephemeral nature of time. Though everyone really feels like it is a vapid concept but is likely too afraid to say anything. The real tragedy is that under the black crystal is probably a pretty nice watch, but that hardly matters right? This watch makes a lot more sense as an April fool's day joke. In fact I wish I would have thought of it myself. As a serious timepiece the H9 Reduction is simply confounding. It is OK, don't be afraid to call it out for what you feel that it is.

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2014年7月20日星期日

Dent Ministry Chronograph Watch

Dent Ministry Chronograph Watch   watch releases

I haven't covered the watch brand Dent in quite some time, but wanted to bring your attention to this attractive chronograph model made by the brand whose name goes back to the maker of London's Big Ben clock. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This piece is called the Dent Ministry Chronograph, and while not a totally original design, is very well-proportioned and attractive.

The Ministry is a larger range collection for the brand with at least three different model types. The chronograph model has a 43mm wide case with a thick sloped bezel and case. There are rings engraved into the side of the case to help reduce visual mass, and the square chronograph pushers help even out the look.

The Ministry Chronograph dial is almost minimalist, but in a very elegant way. The design is good, offering key elements of style without going overboard. The dials of course are inspired by classic Dent pocket watches. This is essentially a sport watch in a sport jacket. The large, legible dial nevertheless has applied Roman numerals and easy to see hands. Hands which are traditional in style (and blued on the silver and cream dial versions).

Inset chronograph subdials with a hint of texture offer exactly the right amount of decor and sense of dial depth. The hands are the right length, which really (really) helps the dial look its best. Too short hands on a watch like this would have totally killed it for me. Right now Dent offers three versions of the Ministry Chronograph, with black, silver, or cream dials.

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These go along with the three case materials, which are 18k rose gold, platinum (with the black dial), and steel (with the silver dial). For some reason, Dent calls two of the watches the Dent Ministry Chronograph, but the steel version is the Dent Ministry Evolution. Not sure why that is as the pieces are the same save for the case material. Inside the watches is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph than Dent refers to as their caliber 301.

I really like the straps on these watches. They look thick and soft, each being alligator. The integration of the straps right to the case is proper. All in all, these are handsome timepieces with a good spirit and design that most people can get behind. Mix in a fancy sounding brand that most watch lovers haven't even heard about and I think you have a pretty cool watch. Prices however are on the steeper side. 

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2014年7月17日星期四

Richard Mille RM032 Dark Diver Chronograph Watch

Richard Mille RM032 Dark Diver Chronograph Watch   watch releases

Let's face it, there are not many brands like Richard Mille. They are effectively the Pagani Automobili of the watch world as they have consistently pushed the limits and interaction of materials, technology, and design. Richard Mille is famous for their use of massively complex skeleton movements, curved tonneau cases, and exotic materials. Some readers will remember the RM056 model which was launched at BaselWorld this year featuring a case made of sapphire crystal and sporting a $1.65m price tag.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Regardless of your opinion of their watches, you have to admire their drive to make unbelievable products with truly stratospheric prices.

Consider the RM027 which features a tourbillon movement and a case made of a high-carbon composite that weighs only 13g (without its strap) and can actually float when placed in water (read more here). The RM027 carries a price tag in excess of $550,000 and is perhaps most famously known as the watch worn by tennis star Rafael Nadal. I like Richard Mille watches for the same reason I like the many iterations of the Pagani Zonda, they're insane, dramatic, and an interesting point of overlap between the passions of technology and design.

For those that don't quite have a half million dollars (or more) just lying around, perhaps a limited edition of the RM032 Dive Chronograph will do? The new Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is packaged in a massive 50 x 17.8mm case so only those with a wrist to match their wallet should apply. The case is made of titanium which has been treated to a black DLC finish and matches nicely with the skeleton view of the RMAC2 chronograph movement. The RMAC2 is an automatically winding chronograph movement with flyback capability, an annual calendar, and a pinwheel-style running indicator which spins when the chronograph is active. In typical Richard Mille fashion, the movement is viewable from both the front and back of the watch via sapphire crystals and the movement itself makes up the majority of the dial.

Featuring the same pusher locking system seen in the original RM032 Dive Chronograph we showed you here, turning the inner ring around the crown locks both the crown and pushers from use and secures the watch for dives of up to 300m. Similar to the locking system seen in much of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor range, the Richard Mille system offers an easy and visually verifiable way of locking its controls, not only for water resistance but also to ensure that the measure taken by the watch cannot be interrupted while diving. As cool as this system, and indeed the entire RM032 Dark Diver is, I doubt that many buyers will take such a watch diving, let alone to great depths.

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The Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is both undeniably cool and almost completely impractical. The original RM032 carried a price tag of $125,000 and the Dark Diver, being limited to just 30 pieces, will cost only $140,000 USD. Just like a top-tier supercar, a Richard Mille should be prohibitively expensive, the price is part of the attraction for a sensational product like the RM032. Pricing aside, the Dark Diver is very large and tonally quite boisterous, but I suppose that is the point of a watch like this. Regardless of the fact that I will never own one, I love Richard Mille watches as they represent the cutting edge, a product of one of the dynamic elements within modern watch making. Surprisingly, there is a lot of competition to be found at the six figure price point, but Richard Mille is doing as they please and the RM032 certainly won't be confused for a similarly priced Patek, Lange or Opus.

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2014年7月15日星期二

Sinn & Paul Parey Limited Edition Hunting Watch

Sinn & Paul Parey Limited Edition Hunting Watch   watch releases
Sinn has announced the release of a limited edition chronograph in partnership with Paul Parey publishing. For those not in the know (myself included), http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Paul Parey is a German publisher of a wide range of hunting and fishing magazines. Sinn has essentially customized their excellent 756 chronograph with a dark green dial and earthy brown strap to make a hunting watch.

Hunters can be subjected to a wide range of environmental extremes so I think a Sinn fits nicely into the hunter/woodsman ethos. They are tough, no-nonsense, reliable and legible timepieces that are not meant to be safe queens, I can think of few better watches for the active outdoors type. Many of the military-ready qualities which Sinn incorporates into their watches are also of value to hunters and anglers alike.

While not specifically referenced, the Sinn Paul Parey Hunting Watch does appear to be a standard reference 756 which is built on a 40 x 14mm tegimented steel case and fitted with an AR coated sapphire crystal, ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, and an aviation inspired dial with a vertical bi-compax layout. Additionally, the 756 is water resistant to 200m and boasts considerable anti-magnetic protection (80,000 A/m) and shock resistance.

The 756 is one of those watches that ticks every "sport watch" box but still manages to cost less than you might guess. The base Sinn 756 on a leather strap can be had for $2400 USD. This new hunting version will be limited to 100 units  and is being sold directly through a specialized website (found here, in German) for € 1,990.00 ($2570 USD). For a limited edition with a lovely green dial and two strap options, an increase of only $140 USD is quite reasonable. I think they should have given it a better name like "The Hunter", or the "Sinn 756 Hunter". Regardless of the name, the Sinn Paul Parey Hunting Watch is a cool and attractive limited edition variant to the standard Sinn 756.

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2014年7月13日星期日

Cartier Calibre Chronograph Watch

Cartier Calibre Chronograph Watch   watch releases
In 2010 Cartier released a brand new collection of men's watches called the Calibre. It was rather revolutionary for the brand for a couple of reasons, bringing Cartier's men's collection into the 21st Century. It was also a mass produced watch that contained an in-house made Cartier movement - something that previously only existed in their most high-end pieces.

I knew the Calibre would be a hit from the start when I first discussed it here. It was handsome, the right size, and very much what a modern guy wanted in a Cartier Replica Watch. Sure models like the Santos and Roadster would always be popular, but I think Cartier needed something with a little sport in it as well as pizzazz. Since 2010 Cartier has trickled out variations on the original design by adding a bracelet option in 2011, and for 2012 there is a chronograph. For a full hands-on review on the original Cartier watch (on the bracelet) see this article.

It wasn't difficult to predict that Cartier would build upon the Calibre watch with new models and features over the years. In fact, the Calibre case is used in many of their much higher-end pieces as well. Though those models are distinct from the basic Calibre models because they target vastly different price demographics. This Cartier Calibre Chronograph is the second version of the "mainstream luxury" Calibre watch collection. The case design is unchanged from the original save for the addition of the chronograph pushers.

Cartier inserted chronograph pushers into the extended crown structure, which look extremely elegant. In fact, if you look at the three-hand version of the Calibre you'll notice that area which now contains the chronograph pushers appears as though it was designed from the beginning with a plan that pushers would eventually be there. That is probably the case actually. For 2012 the Calibre Chronograph will be available in a 42mm wide steel or 18k pink gold case - and a bracelet or strap option is available from the outset.

The chronograph will be a bi-compax chronograph that measures a full 12 hours. That means the watch will have no running seconds hand, unless you have the chronograph function going all the time. The dial has been redesigned to incorporate the subdials, and is finally totally symmetrical. Cartier also moved the minute scale ring out to the flange ring - an area that was previously bare with just a brushed metal finish. This changes the look of the watch and also has the effect of making the dial appear larger. The dial is now able to have larger, more distinct hour markers, which once again take the form of half Roman numerals and half baton markers (is this Cartier's version of a California dial?). You have the same type of decor on the dial, but everything feels more grounded given the symmetrical design. Cartier retained the "expanded" date window, but moved it to 6 o'clock. All in all I like the dial a lot, but one again feel that Cartier designed the main hands to be a bit too short.

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Inside the watch is a new movement which builds upon the in-house made Cartier 1904 MC. The new movement is conveniently named the 1904-CH MC. It is an automatic with a column wheel-based chronograph and 48 hours of power reserve. Once again the movement is very visually appealing in terms of design and decor. I love that little Cartier "C" shaped part of the balance wheels fine adjuster. You can see the movement through the sapphire exhibition caseback window.

Detailing on the Calibre Chronograph is quite nice and it is a great way to enjoy the little touches Cartier offers (good bracelet, sapphire crystal cabochon, and good look dial) in a more sporty package. I anticipate new colors and variations for the Calibre Chronograph in the years to come, but right now these options are rather attractive. The Calibre Chronograph isn't a perfect design, but it is very nice. I anticipate that the price for the steel version on the bracelet will be in the vicinity of $10,000. The Cartier Calibre Chronograph will officially debut at SIHH 2013, after which I can share a hands-on experience with you.

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2014年7月10日星期四

Cartier Crash Watch Returns

Cartier Crash Watch Returns   watch releases
This is one of those irresistible stories to discuss no matter how many times it has been told or how morbid the details. It involves Cartier, one of the most mysterious and popular watch and jewelry brands on the planet, and stories like this make watch collecting worth the money.

A few years ago I noticed a vintage Cartier watch that looked as though it had been melted. I barely believed it was real. It didn't have a name or details, but I realized something must have been special about it. I later learned that it was a Cartier Crash Replica Watch. Originally produced in 1967 and later in the early 1990s as a limited edition, this extremely rare watch is a testament to emotion influencing design and the oddity that is the luxury world. Cartier will release a new limited edition collection of the Crash watch for 2013 as a high-end jewelry piece on a bracelet. While this new edition is a vast departure from the theme of the original, it is interesting to see Cartier continue the legend of the Crash.

Apparently in England "crash" is another term for car accident. Which is exactly what seeded the design of the watch. In the mid 1960s, Cartier's vice president was in London and died in a car accident. The crash caused a fire which burned his body and the Cartier watch that he was wearing at the time. The piece burning on his wrist happened to be the tall and oblong-shaped Bagnoire Alongee. The watch survived - well sort of. It is sort of morbid that after the event, Cartier took great interest in what happened to the watch that was on the corpse's wrist, though I supposed I would too. They inspected it carefully and found that the case had melted as though it was in a Dali painting. Whether it was enough LSD or a deep emotional connection to the now-deceased vice president, Cartier decided to produce a watch that looked like the melted Bagnoire Alongee. It of course became the Cartier Crash - a super strange watch for men that fit perfectly into the art scene of the era. For a bit more history you can consult this article by Richard Paige who was the guy who originally founded Timezone.

Fast forward to now and the Crash becomes an avant garde ladies watch with diamonds on a gold bracelet. Not exactly the logical extension of the collection, but a fittingly unique product to keep attention on Cartier in 2013. The original gold model on a simple leather strap is now fitted with an 18k pink or white gold "tear-drop link" bracelet for women of high means. While the bracelet is optionally covered in diamonds, all versions of the 2013 limited edition are diamond covered. This is a bit unfortunate because the diamond decor on the case hides some of the more interesting "melted" details of the original. The "dripping" look of the case remains, but the 2013 version is far more polished and clean looking than the quirky originals. Also note how the original indicated the origin of the watch to be London (due to the office there at the time), while the modern versions simply attach the typical "Swiss Made" marker to the dial.

Larger than the original, the 2013 Cartier Crash watches will be 25.5mm wide by 38.45mm tall. Inside will be manually wound mechanical movements and the entire 2013 collection will be limited to 267 pieces per model with the standard bracelet and 67 pieces with the fully diamond covered bracelet. All in gold with either 2.15 or 4.27 carats of stones, this watch is a showpiece available only in special Cartier boutiques, and often via special order only.

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Cartier is fully aware that a watch like this (especially at its price point) is a niche model to say the least. Though inherent to its strange history is an authenticity and sense of heritage that brands need in order to continue to appeal to the general consumer. Cartier especially has done a remarkable job of coming out with interesting and exclusive pieces year after year to supplement their larger base of more mass produced watches and jewelry products. That makes it a pleasure to keep an eye on what they do and discuss oddities with real character like the Crash.

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2014年7月8日星期二

Halda Race Pilot Watch Zenith Mechanical & Digital Movement

Halda Race Pilot Watch Zenith Mechanical & Digital Movement   watch releases

Swedish boutique watch brand Halda releases their second watch with the Race Pilot. Their first watch was the Halda Space Discovery, that was pricey, but interesting with its module system. The idea is that the watch case itself can be removed and you can include a digital device or a standard mechanical watch. On a bracelet, the Space Discovery is now complemented by the Racing Pilot which comes on a natural rubber strap, and offers some new things.

Halda wanted to make this a racing world inspired watch so the "Racing" part of the name makes sense. http://www.demowatch.net/breitling-watches-c-25.html The "Pilot" part eludes me, but given the features in the digital module, a pilot would find the piece useful enough. My biggest problem with the Halda concept is that you need a place to store the other module if you have both. What I think they should have done is made it so that the case itself can flip over, showing a mechanical movement on one side, and a digital display on the other. With a brand like Linde Werdelin, you can at least attach their digital instruments to your mechanical watch - though that does tend to make them a bit bulky.

The Race Pilot watch itself is 45mm wide made from DLC black coated titanium with a steel case back. The design is nice and modern, and I am sure the system for removing and inserting the module is clever enough. Let's discuss the mechanical module first. Halda is very proud of their relationship with Zenith who supplied the movement. It isn't an El Primero, but that doesn't matter much as it isn't a chronograph. Inside the Race Pilot mechanical watch module is a Zenith caliber 685 automatic movement with the time, date, and power reserve indicator. The complex dial should appeal to those interested in high-end sport watches done in a modern taste. I believe this movement is used in some Zenith Elite watches.

Dial design looks cool in the renders, but I'd need to see it myself in the flesh to make a final determination. The materials Halda uses are those that are only going to look great if manufactured properly. Having said that, it could look really sharp if Halda pushes its suppliers enough.

The Race Pilot digital module is a bit more interesting and offers a few things that help make this watch more than just a super expensive Casio ProTrek. It would have been great if Halda could have used a higher resolution display, but in the interest of battery life I understand why they use these. Still, when the dial looks so similar to a Suunto, it is hard to separate yourself as a brand. This module is also made from DLC coated titanium, and it has three pushers for all the functions.


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Some of the more unique features (or noteworthy) of the "Race module" (with the Halda caliber 2012-1 movement) are the red LED status lights on the case, the internal accelerometer (for a G-Force meter), and a "Race Pilot" program that has information on some of the most popular racetracks around the world. Of course, the digital watch also has the typical slew of functions including the time, 1/100th of a second chronograph, calendars, world time, alarm, countdown timer, and a battery power indicator. Pretty much what your smartphone has. If there was ever a time when I wanted smartphones to be wearable, it is now. If only to force luxury watch brands to offer more than just design and a well-constructed package. I want them to DO something special as well.

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2014年7月6日星期日

Christophe Claret Kantharos Watch

Christophe Claret Kantharos Watch Exclusive Debut   watch releases

Lucky for you Christophe Claret watch lovers that Mr. Claret's newest piece is also probably his most affordable yet. No, it isn't going to come cheap at about $100,000 bucks. But that is better than $200,000 right? It does however come with a cool name; "Kantharos." A strong title - the term is actually quite simple. A kantharos is the term used to describe a form of ancient Greek pottery. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html More specifically, a drinking vessel. So the watch is like a tall glass of cool water? Not exactly... I think Claret's motive was to comment on how the high-contrast dial is similar to the high-contrast colors on these antique pots.

The Kantharos uses the same case and aesthetics of the Christophe Claret Blackjack 21, Baccarat, and Soprano watches. It looks like the brand will settle on this case design and dial style for a while to come. While we have just one picture at launch, the Kantharos will be available in five versions. Pictured is the black titanium model, but other versions will includes cases that mix titanium and various tones of gold. The case here is 45mm wide and looks quite sporty for a high-end collector's watch.

For me, the dial of the Kantharos looks like an angry owl. Am I the only one that can see that? Just look at those grimacing eye brows! I mean hands.... Chronograph subdials make for emotive eyes, and the open window of the constant force escapement makes for a hell of a complex beak. The dial isn't the only unique thing about the Kantharos, this is truly an original watch when it comes to the complication. Christophe does not disappoint when it comes to cleverly arranging features in a way I would have never anticipated.

In addition to being an automatic (I think a first for Christophe Claret branded watches), the Kantharos caliber MBA13 movement has the time, a monopusher 12 hour chronograph, a constant force escapement (which means that power runs from the mainspring barrel to the movement in a consistent amount no matter how tightly wound the spring is). This helps a watch be more accurate over time, and a sonnerie function for the chronograph.

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Allow me to explain this latter function as it debuted on Christophe Claret's Dual Tow watch (hands-on here). You know how when you press keys on your phone, it beeps to let you know that the key was registered? It is sort of the same thing. When you press the chronograph pusher, a cathedral style gong is hit by a sonnerie hammer to let you know that you "did something." This is the same type of musical system used in minute repeater watches. Christophe Claret simply calls this function a "mechanical chime," which is more or less what it is. You can actually see the hammer through a window at 10 o'clock on the dial. Now you have a lot more reason to play with the chronograph. All that complexity for such simple auditory satisfaction...

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2014年7月3日星期四

The New Nomos Series 38 Watches

BaselWorld 2013: The New Nomos Series 38 Watches   watch releases

Case size is crucial in watch design as it affects not only comfort, but also proportion and the everyday practicality of the piece. With that in mind, it is remarkable what a difference a few millimeters can make when up-sizing a smaller model to suit a larger wrist. With the new Series 38, Nomos Glashutte has breathed new life into their Orion,http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Tangente and Ludwig models, while also introducing a 38mm version of the Orion with a grey dial. While likely still considered small by many tastes, the Series 38 is an exciting update that I was eager to see in person as Nomos exhibits a style and design philosophy that has always spoken to my tastes and a slightly larger version of the lovely Orion is definitely worth a closer look.

The 38 Series is comprised of four new models, three of which are essentially up-sized versions of their 35mm older siblings. The totally new model is the Orion 38 Grau and it is a design that is instantly recognizable as a Nomos, but varied in its use of a nicely muted tonal dial. The medium grey dial exhibits the signature Orion attention to scale and proportion with long elegant hands and a matching silver-tone marker layout. As with all of the Series 38, the Orion 38 Grau is powered by Nomos' in-house and hand wound Alpha movement, designed in a three quarter plate layout with a 43 hour power reserve, 17 jewels and a small seconds display. The Alpha can been seen via the display case back and is fully decorated with Nomos pearlage, blued screws, and a sunburst treatment for the ratchet and crown wheel.

In person, the Orion 38 Grau is quite intriguing. Yes, like the entire 38 Series, it may still be a little small for some tastes but it is exceedingly elegant and a treat to have on wrist. I found the 38mm instantly acceptable on my seven inch wrist, likely thanks to the thin bezel and elongated lug design used for the Orion 38 case. Fantastically lightweight, the Orion 38 (Grau or otherwise) will easily fit under a shirt cuff thanks to its 8.86mm thickness. I really like the Grau and I feel that the reserved appeal of the grey dial could make for an excellent daily wearer, regardless of your dress code.

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Also updated to 38mm are both the Tangente and the Ludwig. The Tangente uses a dial design with Arabic numerals for the even numbers while the Ludwig opts for Roman numerals. Both look excellent and offer a larger wrist presence compared to the standard 35mm models. If you often find yourself in need of a date display, the Tangente, Ludwig and the white-dialed Orion can be had with a tastefully proportioned date display at six o'clock. The range presented by the Series 38 offers a practical and nicely-sized Nomos option for nearly any dial preference, whether it be the more casual Tangente, the classic Orion, or the more ornate Ludwig. 

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