“Hydro-Mechanical” Models

HYT the “hydro-mechanical timekeeper” are revealing several new variations of their H1 and H2 models at Baselworld 2014.   With two core designs settled upon, HYT is broadening the H1 and H2 collections with a variety of new fluid colors (red, blue) and case metals (titanium/Ti, aluminum alloy, Ti-bronze, DLC-ti, etc.) – there are some really cool new combinations coming!!!  Above is a photo of the H1 that I took at Baselworld 2013.  You can see all the 2014 combos in the video below, and as pics of several of them as well. 

The HYT H1 was the debut timepiece when the brand launched a couple years ago, with caliber done by Chronode.    While still using the dual-piston powered capillary fluid time display, the H2 was redesigned by AP Renaud & Papi with a different architecture.   The H2 also came with a ~3x jump in price ($60,000 for the H1 vs. $160,000 for the H2, ballpark).

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New to the H1 collection are two 50-piece limited editions:  the H1 Alumen Blue (~$59,000), with a blue anodized aluminium alloy case (“ALUN 316B”) and the “original” fluorescent green fluid indicator, the other with a red fluid hour display and a titanium case with the bezel and lugs in red gold (~$65,000).

As for the H2, here are the three new models being introduced.  The H2 “Iceberg” (blue) and the black DLC + pink gold models are limited to 20 pieces each ($160,000), the H2 red with Platinum bezel is limited to 15 pieces ($190,000).


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Official FIFA World Cup Brazil 2014 Watch

The Hublot “Soccer Bang” is here! As Official timekeeper and Official Watch of the 2014 FIFA World Cup, expectations are certainly high for Hublot and it looks like the Soccer Bang (officially the “King Pele”) will not disappoint.  It is a watch specially designed for the world of football, http://www.jmontres.net/hublot-replique-9.html with soccer match timing capability.  It is also the first Big Bang Unico Bi-Retrograde Chrono — a first for Hublot (patent-pending movement, too). I’ll break it down for you, below.

Of course it is no accident that the green and yellow dial colors align with the national colors of 2014 FIFA World Cup host, Brazil.  The UNICO Manufacture calibre – unique in the industry, with its column wheel and dual coupling on the dial side – was chosen to serve as the base for the new automatic mechanical manufacture HUB1260 bi-retrograde central chronograph.

When the chronograph is started, the chrono’s second hand and minute hand move from left to right in a circular arc of 45 minutes (one half of a football match), with an area for 15 minutes’ added time up to 60 minutes.  There are two push-buttons on either side of the crown for START, STOP and RESET; the push-button at 2 o’clock is also used to show the period of time selected from the following 4 options: 1st half, half time, 2nd half and end of match, indicated by a window in the center at 12 o’clock.

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Patek Philippe’s First Split-Seconds Chronograph

Sotheby’s New York “Important Watches” sale earlier this week (June 10th) was led by a piece of watchmaking history: Patek Philippe’s First Split-Seconds Chronograph Wristwatch, Patek Philippe Replica Watch which was started in 1903 and completed and sold on 13 October 1923.  It sold to a Swiss museum at a price of $2,965,000 – more than double its $1.2 million high estimate.   This price is just shy of Sotheby’s top result ever for a wristwatch.

As you can see below, the split second chronograph caliber bears the reference number 124824; according to Patek, was likely to have been produced by Victorin Piguet.  She’s a beauty!!The chronograph function controlled via the button on the band for start, stop and reset to zero, the split second hand function controlled via the winding crown.

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New Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

Just two years ago, Patek Philippe introduced a new Ref. 5980/1A with a white dial (for laymen: that’s the Nautilus Chronograph). We at Monochrome watches were a bit surprised to discover, at Baselworld 2014, that Patek has already discontinued the steel 5980/1A model  and replaced it with a steel Nautilus Chronograph with a second time zone, like the one in the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164.

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On the dial, we see the chronograph register at 6 o’clock, and, similar to that on the Aquanaut Travel Time, it features a pointer-date, now positioned on the upper part of the dial. The date indication is connected to the local time, which is your travel destination. When traveling, it can be adjusted both forward and backward, to follow the date of the time zone where you are. To the left and right on the dial are two small apertures, which indicate day and night in both the local time zone and the home time zone.

The chronograph pushers – to start, stop and reset to zero – are located on the left-hand side of the case, just like on the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A. Where the old 5980/1A had a 60-minute and 12-hour register for measuring elapsed time, the new ref. 5990/1A has just one 60-minute counter. While you won’t be able to measure how long that intercontinental flight took anymore, the new subdial is cleaner and easier to read. And with the additional pointer-date register, that’s a good thing.


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Rose gold-titanium prototype of the Oktopus II

Firstly though, I was told that the Oktopus II marks a special point for the brand. Jorn says that there will not be any new cases from here on forwards; they (Jorn and partner, Morten) have now got a fairly fixed idea of what the brand should be, and in turn how translates into how the watches should look and feel physically. http://www.watchgoing.com/hublot-c-9.html As far as I can tell, the watches are for adventurous types who want something different, stylish, but yet with a bit of flash and their own unique identity.

In effect, something akin to a cult iconic watch. I don’t know how many owners use the instrument modules with their watches, but it seems that it’s a practical and easy to use solution to providing the requisite specialist functions for mountaineering or diving. It’s also good to know that both instruments are interchangeably compatible with all of the cases.

On the matter of cases, it’s the first thing you notice about a watch. The designs that have stood the test of time and can be considered ‘landmarks’ or ‘classics’ aren’t many – off the top of my head, we have the Submariner, Explorer, Daytona, Speedmaster, Nautilus, Royal Oak, Luminor…and to be honest, I can’t think of any others that come to mind off hand. There are more that are instantly identifiable to watch aficionados, of course, but the iconic ones are about the limit for most even reasonably horologically savvy people.

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It’s not easy to create a distinctive case design from scratch, much less one that can be considered iconic. Linde Werdelin has done a great job with the former – all of the cases are instantly identifiable as belonging to the brand and not something else – but whether they cross the boundary into the latter is something that can only be answered with the test of time. Retained value is another good indicator of long-term survivability of a design; it’s too early to tell with Linde Werdelin as the brand is simply too new, but it’s worth noting that the iconic watches tend to realize very good resale values.

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200 Versus Ploprof 600

When Omega introduced the Ploprof 1200M back in 2009, I was actually happily surprised to see that they did such an amazing job. The resemblance with the original Omega Ploprof 600M 166.077 was amazing.  On first sight, the new Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200M looked identical to the PloProf 600M version of almost 40 years earlier. On Fratellowatches we wrote about the PloProf watches several times, but never took the time to put the two models together and have a closer look.

For detailed history on the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 600 I will ask you to read this article on the Omega Ploprof’s History, written by Jon Wallis. I will give the highlights of the PloProf history to you in a nutshell, mainly based on what Omega has documented on this timepiece. According to official Omega documentation, it took them more than four years to develop a solution to create a watch that could handle the extreme pressure that a watch needs to withstand when diving at great depths. Even COMEX divers were involved in the testing of Ploprof prototypes during the Janus operation. Already at that time, around 1970, Omega was experimenting with materials like titanium for watches. Less then 10 pieces have been made out of titanium for testing purposes, but never made production since the price of such a watch in titanium would be totally crazy.

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In the end, Omega came up with the following solution: a monocoque case (or monobloc) made of stainless steel with a locking bolt to secure the setting and winding crown. Water is of course one thing, but at extreme depths divers would be working in a pressurized chamber where they breathe a mixture of oxygen and helium. The helium gas is able to enter the watch when it is under pressure, as you probably know if you are into diving watches. Instead of using a helium valve like Rolex did with their Sea-Dweller watches, Omega decided that it would be better to prevent helium from entering the watch in the first place. Omega also wanted to measure the maximum pressure the Ploprof 600M could handle which resulted in a failure of the watch at 1370 meters (or 137 ATM) as the second hand stopped due to deformation of the crystal and case. The Ploprof 600M was taken into production in 1970.


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Armin Strom One Week Water

Before I start the watch review of the Armin Strom One Week Water, let me start by telling you that I was quite impressed by their manufacture in Bienne. http://www.cnmontres.com/hublot-montres-c-4.html Director Claude Greisler gave me tour through the factory that basically started at his desk, where he designs the Armin Strom pieces using state of the art CAD software. This application Armin Strom uses enables them to meticulously design a watch as well as quickly shift through all layers of the watch. From dial and bezel all the way down to the smallest parts in the movement.

Claude Greisler also showed me the CNC machines in the lower part of the Armin Strom building.  They not only produce their own little parts like screws, but also seem to do this for a number of other small independent brands. Buying these small parts with the exact specifications that are needed for the Armin Strom movements would be very expensive, so they decided to buy their own machinery in order to produce them their selves. A number of specific CNC machines are used to create the movement’s base plate. As you can see on the photos in this review, the finish of the movement is impeccable. This is mainly due to the very accurate CNC machines used by Armin Strom. The decoration of the movement and the hand-engraving is of course the human touch to the watch, a work of art really, performed by the master engravers.


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The whole watchmaking process is basically performed under the same roof. The design, producing movements and parts, assembly, regulating, quality control and finally attaching the strap and buckle and making the watch ready for its delivery to the customer. It occurred to me that all necessary processes from A to Z were very optimized, something that wouldn’t have looked bad in a high-tech IT company.  In any case, I found it to be quite impressive for such a small company. 

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Original case design

It is very difficult to come up with a watch design that doesn’t remind you of an existing model out there. Or at least discover influences from other familiar watch designs. With over 500 watch brands out there, it is also not said that watch designers are conscious about copying / using existing design elements. This Tempest Commodore is clearly a diving watch by design, but I couldn’t recognize a design from existing watches out there. http://www.bienmontre.com/iwc-montres-replique-46 I do see certain design aspects that I recognize from other diving watches I’ve seen and tried, but I guess that certain elements belong to a certain style of a wrist watch.

The exception might be the design of the bracelet. TAG Heuer used to have a collection called Kirium that had a similar designed (integrated) bracelet, with a raised centre link. However, it is not an exact copy and it is merely a resemblance that came to my mind. The bracelet of the Tempest Commodore has a an easy to adjust clasp. With small clicks the bracelet can be sized very precisely. As you know, climate or moment of the day might influence the circumference of your wrist a bit. With its micro-adjustment, there is always a right fit.

The 44,5mm case is large, but fits wonderfully on my wrists. I do not have exceptionally large wrists, so I can’t judge how this watch would fit a small wrist. The weight of the case and bracelet (143,6 grams) is quite comfortable and suitable for daily wear. It is not super light-weight (despite being titanium) but that’s also something I wouldn’t want it to be.

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On top of the case you’ll see the ceramic unidirectional diving bezel that will make a full turn in 120 clicks. There was no substantial play during the use of the bezel, no more or less than other (much more expensive) watches I’ve worn. The big size makes it easy to grasp and use the bezel. The numerals on the dial are luminous.

On the back side of the watch there is a screw-down case back. In the centre, there is a large anchor embossed out of the titanium case back. A very nice and original design. At first I was afraid that at the end of the day I would have an anchor pressed in my wrist, but you won’t feel it is there when it is on the wrist nor does it leaves traces. If you don’t wear the too tight around your wrist, that is. The beautiful anchor shows the eye for detail by Tempest. The case back has a few engravings as well, indicating the model name, the movement caliber, water resistance, use of a sapphire crystal and the material of the case. Some of this information is perhaps obsolete or duplicate, but it looks nice and seems to give a well-balanced appearance on the case back.

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The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green

Linde Werdelin is a friend of the show for some years now. We did quite a bit of coverage on this Danish design brand founded by Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin. So let’s cut straight through the chase and talk about their Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green.

Just before our Summer holiday started, we received – for reviewing purposes – the SpidoSpeed Green chronograph, as introduced to us during the BaselWorld 2014 exhibition. We’ve had a SpidoSpeed chronograph in the past for review purposes as well, but this time it was a bit different. Why? Well, the SpidoSpeed chronograph as evolved a bit over the years. Although it did not lose its unique shape and powerful appearance, Linde Werdelin started to use different types of materials for their watches as well as giving the 3D experience of their sports watches a bit more depth.

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Somehow I love the use of a green color in watches. If it is done a chic way. The Rolex Submariner LV would be perhaps a bit too much of a green overkill for me, but I believe that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Monte Napoleone” limited edition and one of the Hublot Big Bang with some green accents got it right.

This new Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green is a bit more subtle with the green, as it only has been used on the minute track and sub dials. Looking at the sub dials, you probably already noticed the ‘charged’ writing at 4 o’clock of the chronograph hour recorder. Morten Linde explained here what it means, but we’ll do it in short as well: the add-on instruments that you can use with the Linde Werdelin timepieces need a 4 hour charge to be fully powered-up. So, if you want to use these instruments you just plug them onto the charger and click the start/stop pusher of your SpidoSpeed Green chronograph. If the hour recorder shows 4 o’clock you’ll know the add-on instrument is ready for use. Simple. Anyway, the green accents are also noticeable on the crown and on the right side of the case band.


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James Dean’s Elgin pocketwatch

Few factors can increases the value of a vintage watch quite like its once having belonged to a celebrity.http://www.ko-watches.net/breitling-replica-25.html Whenever a watch owned by a famous or historic figure goes on the block at auction houses like Antiquorum and Christie’s, bidding can be expected to go well beyond the estimated value. Below we look at notable “celebrity” watches, once owned by iconic entertainment and sports stars, sold at auction within the past few years.

At its June 22, 2013 auction of “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” in Hong Kong, Antiquorum auctioned a pocketwatch belonging to legendary actor James Dean. The pocketwatch was made by American watchmaker Standard USA circa 1889 with an American-made Elgin movement. Dean had his initials engraved on the watch and considered it his good luck charm, wearing it while performing in TV and plays. The piece’s estimated price was around US $5,000, but after several bids from around the world, the watch sold for eight times that estimated value at about $42,000 (HKD $325,000).


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Rotating Bezel Landed on the Dive Watch

In the third part of our ongoing series on the basics of the dive watch, we at Diveintowatches.com explained about how its most characteristic feature works. In this edition, we dive a little bit deeper and discover its origins.

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A watch bezel with an added functionality — whether fixed or rotatable — has certainly been neither exclusive to the dive watch nor invented for it: such a bezel can be used for measuring speed, pulse, distance/position, navigation and directions, meeting times, et cetera. At one point, there was even one used to help in quitting smoking. And we need not even mention the buzz-saw functions and other fictional accessories in some of those James Bond movie watches. Various racing and aircraft instruments have also been equipped with rotating markers for quite a while. So, if you wanted a wristwatch with a rotating, external bezel before 1953, you most likely had to buy a timepiece that was used for auto racing or, even more likely, for aviation: pilots’ watches often came equipped with a bi-directional rotating bezel with simple markers.

The concept dates back to 1929, when Philip Van Horn Weems applied for a patent for a wristwatch with a more complex external bezel, which was granted in 1935 and soon found its way on to many pilots’ watches, the most important one being the legendary Weems watch from Longines (other brands using the same lockable bezel included Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Movado and Zenith).


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