2014年12月29日星期一

“Hydro-Mechanical” Models

HYT H2 Platinum Red

HYT the “hydro-mechanical timekeeper” are revealing several new variations of their H1 and H2 models at Baselworld 2014.   With two core designs settled upon, HYT is broadening the H1 and H2 collections with a variety of new fluid colors (red, blue) and case metals (titanium/Ti, aluminum alloy, Ti-bronze, DLC-ti, etc.) – there are some really cool new combinations coming!!!  Above is a photo of the H1 that I took at Baselworld 2013.  You can see all the 2014 combos in the video below, and as pics of several of them as well. 

The HYT H1 was the debut timepiece when the brand launched a couple years ago, with caliber done by Chronode.    While still using the dual-piston powered capillary fluid time display, the H2 was redesigned by AP Renaud & Papi with a different architecture.   The H2 also came with a ~3x jump in price ($60,000 for the H1 vs. $160,000 for the H2, ballpark).

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New to the H1 collection are two 50-piece limited editions:  the H1 Alumen Blue (~$59,000), with a blue anodized aluminium alloy case (“ALUN 316B”) and the “original” fluorescent green fluid indicator, the other with a red fluid hour display and a titanium case with the bezel and lugs in red gold (~$65,000).

As for the H2, here are the three new models being introduced.  The H2 “Iceberg” (blue) and the black DLC + pink gold models are limited to 20 pieces each ($160,000), the H2 red with Platinum bezel is limited to 15 pieces ($190,000).


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Official FIFA World Cup Brazil 2014 Watch

Hublot King Pele Soccer Bang Watch Black Ceramic Case

The Hublot “Soccer Bang” is here! As Official timekeeper and Official Watch of the 2014 FIFA World Cup, expectations are certainly high for Hublot and it looks like the Soccer Bang (officially the “King Pele”) will not disappoint.  It is a watch specially designed for the world of football, http://www.jmontres.net/hublot-replique-9.html with soccer match timing capability.  It is also the first Big Bang Unico Bi-Retrograde Chrono — a first for Hublot (patent-pending movement, too). I’ll break it down for you, below.

Of course it is no accident that the green and yellow dial colors align with the national colors of 2014 FIFA World Cup host, Brazil.  The UNICO Manufacture calibre – unique in the industry, with its column wheel and dual coupling on the dial side – was chosen to serve as the base for the new automatic mechanical manufacture HUB1260 bi-retrograde central chronograph.

When the chronograph is started, the chrono’s second hand and minute hand move from left to right in a circular arc of 45 minutes (one half of a football match), with an area for 15 minutes’ added time up to 60 minutes.  There are two push-buttons on either side of the crown for START, STOP and RESET; the push-button at 2 o’clock is also used to show the period of time selected from the following 4 options: 1st half, half time, 2nd half and end of match, indicated by a window in the center at 12 o’clock.

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2014年12月22日星期一

Patek Philippe’s First Split-Seconds Chronograph

Patek Philippe No 124824 First Split Second Chronograph

Sotheby’s New York “Important Watches” sale earlier this week (June 10th) was led by a piece of watchmaking history: Patek Philippe’s First Split-Seconds Chronograph Wristwatch, Patek Philippe Replica Watch which was started in 1903 and completed and sold on 13 October 1923.  It sold to a Swiss museum at a price of $2,965,000 – more than double its $1.2 million high estimate.   This price is just shy of Sotheby’s top result ever for a wristwatch.

As you can see below, the split second chronograph caliber bears the reference number 124824; according to Patek, was likely to have been produced by Victorin Piguet.  She’s a beauty!!The chronograph function controlled via the button on the band for start, stop and reset to zero, the split second hand function controlled via the winding crown.

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2014年12月9日星期二

New Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph

Patek Philippe ref.5990/1A - live

Just two years ago, Patek Philippe introduced a new Ref. 5980/1A with a white dial (for laymen: that’s the Nautilus Chronograph). We at Monochrome watches were a bit surprised to discover, at Baselworld 2014, that Patek has already discontinued the steel 5980/1A model  and replaced it with a steel Nautilus Chronograph with a second time zone, like the one in the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164.

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On the dial, we see the chronograph register at 6 o’clock, and, similar to that on the Aquanaut Travel Time, it features a pointer-date, now positioned on the upper part of the dial. The date indication is connected to the local time, which is your travel destination. When traveling, it can be adjusted both forward and backward, to follow the date of the time zone where you are. To the left and right on the dial are two small apertures, which indicate day and night in both the local time zone and the home time zone.

The chronograph pushers – to start, stop and reset to zero – are located on the left-hand side of the case, just like on the Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A. Where the old 5980/1A had a 60-minute and 12-hour register for measuring elapsed time, the new ref. 5990/1A has just one 60-minute counter. While you won’t be able to measure how long that intercontinental flight took anymore, the new subdial is cleaner and easier to read. And with the additional pointer-date register, that’s a good thing.


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2014年12月8日星期一

Rose gold-titanium prototype of the Oktopus II

Some Thoughts And A Hands On With The Linde Werdelin Oktopus II

Firstly though, I was told that the Oktopus II marks a special point for the brand. Jorn says that there will not be any new cases from here on forwards; they (Jorn and partner, Morten) have now got a fairly fixed idea of what the brand should be, and in turn how translates into how the watches should look and feel physically. http://www.watchgoing.com/hublot-c-9.html As far as I can tell, the watches are for adventurous types who want something different, stylish, but yet with a bit of flash and their own unique identity.

In effect, something akin to a cult iconic watch. I don’t know how many owners use the instrument modules with their watches, but it seems that it’s a practical and easy to use solution to providing the requisite specialist functions for mountaineering or diving. It’s also good to know that both instruments are interchangeably compatible with all of the cases.

On the matter of cases, it’s the first thing you notice about a watch. The designs that have stood the test of time and can be considered ‘landmarks’ or ‘classics’ aren’t many – off the top of my head, we have the Submariner, Explorer, Daytona, Speedmaster, Nautilus, Royal Oak, Luminor…and to be honest, I can’t think of any others that come to mind off hand. There are more that are instantly identifiable to watch aficionados, of course, but the iconic ones are about the limit for most even reasonably horologically savvy people.

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It’s not easy to create a distinctive case design from scratch, much less one that can be considered iconic. Linde Werdelin has done a great job with the former – all of the cases are instantly identifiable as belonging to the brand and not something else – but whether they cross the boundary into the latter is something that can only be answered with the test of time. Retained value is another good indicator of long-term survivability of a design; it’s too early to tell with Linde Werdelin as the brand is simply too new, but it’s worth noting that the iconic watches tend to realize very good resale values.

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2014年12月4日星期四

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200 Versus Ploprof 600

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200 Versus Ploprof 600 Review

When Omega introduced the Ploprof 1200M back in 2009, I was actually happily surprised to see that they did such an amazing job. The resemblance with the original Omega Ploprof 600M 166.077 was amazing.  On first sight, the new Omega Seamaster PloProf 1200M looked identical to the PloProf 600M version of almost 40 years earlier. On Fratellowatches we wrote about the PloProf watches several times, but never took the time to put the two models together and have a closer look.

For detailed history on the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 600 I will ask you to read this article on the Omega Ploprof’s History, written by Jon Wallis. I will give the highlights of the PloProf history to you in a nutshell, mainly based on what Omega has documented on this timepiece. According to official Omega documentation, it took them more than four years to develop a solution to create a watch that could handle the extreme pressure that a watch needs to withstand when diving at great depths. Even COMEX divers were involved in the testing of Ploprof prototypes during the Janus operation. Already at that time, around 1970, Omega was experimenting with materials like titanium for watches. Less then 10 pieces have been made out of titanium for testing purposes, but never made production since the price of such a watch in titanium would be totally crazy.

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In the end, Omega came up with the following solution: a monocoque case (or monobloc) made of stainless steel with a locking bolt to secure the setting and winding crown. Water is of course one thing, but at extreme depths divers would be working in a pressurized chamber where they breathe a mixture of oxygen and helium. The helium gas is able to enter the watch when it is under pressure, as you probably know if you are into diving watches. Instead of using a helium valve like Rolex did with their Sea-Dweller watches, Omega decided that it would be better to prevent helium from entering the watch in the first place. Omega also wanted to measure the maximum pressure the Ploprof 600M could handle which resulted in a failure of the watch at 1370 meters (or 137 ATM) as the second hand stopped due to deformation of the crystal and case. The Ploprof 600M was taken into production in 1970.


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Armin Strom One Week Water

Armin Strom One Week Water Hands On Review

Before I start the watch review of the Armin Strom One Week Water, let me start by telling you that I was quite impressed by their manufacture in Bienne. http://www.cnmontres.com/hublot-montres-c-4.html Director Claude Greisler gave me tour through the factory that basically started at his desk, where he designs the Armin Strom pieces using state of the art CAD software. This application Armin Strom uses enables them to meticulously design a watch as well as quickly shift through all layers of the watch. From dial and bezel all the way down to the smallest parts in the movement.

Claude Greisler also showed me the CNC machines in the lower part of the Armin Strom building.  They not only produce their own little parts like screws, but also seem to do this for a number of other small independent brands. Buying these small parts with the exact specifications that are needed for the Armin Strom movements would be very expensive, so they decided to buy their own machinery in order to produce them their selves. A number of specific CNC machines are used to create the movement’s base plate. As you can see on the photos in this review, the finish of the movement is impeccable. This is mainly due to the very accurate CNC machines used by Armin Strom. The decoration of the movement and the hand-engraving is of course the human touch to the watch, a work of art really, performed by the master engravers.


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The whole watchmaking process is basically performed under the same roof. The design, producing movements and parts, assembly, regulating, quality control and finally attaching the strap and buckle and making the watch ready for its delivery to the customer. It occurred to me that all necessary processes from A to Z were very optimized, something that wouldn’t have looked bad in a high-tech IT company.  In any case, I found it to be quite impressive for such a small company. 

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2014年12月3日星期三

Original case design

Hands On With The Tempest Commodore

It is very difficult to come up with a watch design that doesn’t remind you of an existing model out there. Or at least discover influences from other familiar watch designs. With over 500 watch brands out there, it is also not said that watch designers are conscious about copying / using existing design elements. This Tempest Commodore is clearly a diving watch by design, but I couldn’t recognize a design from existing watches out there. http://www.bienmontre.com/iwc-montres-replique-46 I do see certain design aspects that I recognize from other diving watches I’ve seen and tried, but I guess that certain elements belong to a certain style of a wrist watch.

The exception might be the design of the bracelet. TAG Heuer used to have a collection called Kirium that had a similar designed (integrated) bracelet, with a raised centre link. However, it is not an exact copy and it is merely a resemblance that came to my mind. The bracelet of the Tempest Commodore has a an easy to adjust clasp. With small clicks the bracelet can be sized very precisely. As you know, climate or moment of the day might influence the circumference of your wrist a bit. With its micro-adjustment, there is always a right fit.

The 44,5mm case is large, but fits wonderfully on my wrists. I do not have exceptionally large wrists, so I can’t judge how this watch would fit a small wrist. The weight of the case and bracelet (143,6 grams) is quite comfortable and suitable for daily wear. It is not super light-weight (despite being titanium) but that’s also something I wouldn’t want it to be.

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On top of the case you’ll see the ceramic unidirectional diving bezel that will make a full turn in 120 clicks. There was no substantial play during the use of the bezel, no more or less than other (much more expensive) watches I’ve worn. The big size makes it easy to grasp and use the bezel. The numerals on the dial are luminous.

On the back side of the watch there is a screw-down case back. In the centre, there is a large anchor embossed out of the titanium case back. A very nice and original design. At first I was afraid that at the end of the day I would have an anchor pressed in my wrist, but you won’t feel it is there when it is on the wrist nor does it leaves traces. If you don’t wear the too tight around your wrist, that is. The beautiful anchor shows the eye for detail by Tempest. The case back has a few engravings as well, indicating the model name, the movement caliber, water resistance, use of a sapphire crystal and the material of the case. Some of this information is perhaps obsolete or duplicate, but it looks nice and seems to give a well-balanced appearance on the case back.

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The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green

Hands On With The Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green

Linde Werdelin is a friend of the show for some years now. We did quite a bit of coverage on this Danish design brand founded by Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin. So let’s cut straight through the chase and talk about their Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green.

Just before our Summer holiday started, we received – for reviewing purposes – the SpidoSpeed Green chronograph, as introduced to us during the BaselWorld 2014 exhibition. We’ve had a SpidoSpeed chronograph in the past for review purposes as well, but this time it was a bit different. Why? Well, the SpidoSpeed chronograph as evolved a bit over the years. Although it did not lose its unique shape and powerful appearance, Linde Werdelin started to use different types of materials for their watches as well as giving the 3D experience of their sports watches a bit more depth.

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Somehow I love the use of a green color in watches. If it is done a chic way. The Rolex Submariner LV would be perhaps a bit too much of a green overkill for me, but I believe that the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Monte Napoleone” limited edition and one of the Hublot Big Bang with some green accents got it right.

This new Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Green is a bit more subtle with the green, as it only has been used on the minute track and sub dials. Looking at the sub dials, you probably already noticed the ‘charged’ writing at 4 o’clock of the chronograph hour recorder. Morten Linde explained here what it means, but we’ll do it in short as well: the add-on instruments that you can use with the Linde Werdelin timepieces need a 4 hour charge to be fully powered-up. So, if you want to use these instruments you just plug them onto the charger and click the start/stop pusher of your SpidoSpeed Green chronograph. If the hour recorder shows 4 o’clock you’ll know the add-on instrument is ready for use. Simple. Anyway, the green accents are also noticeable on the crown and on the right side of the case band.


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2014年12月1日星期一

James Dean’s Elgin pocketwatch

James Dean's Elgin pocketwatch

Few factors can increases the value of a vintage watch quite like its once having belonged to a celebrity.http://www.ko-watches.net/breitling-replica-25.html Whenever a watch owned by a famous or historic figure goes on the block at auction houses like Antiquorum and Christie’s, bidding can be expected to go well beyond the estimated value. Below we look at notable “celebrity” watches, once owned by iconic entertainment and sports stars, sold at auction within the past few years.

At its June 22, 2013 auction of “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” in Hong Kong, Antiquorum auctioned a pocketwatch belonging to legendary actor James Dean. The pocketwatch was made by American watchmaker Standard USA circa 1889 with an American-made Elgin movement. Dean had his initials engraved on the watch and considered it his good luck charm, wearing it while performing in TV and plays. The piece’s estimated price was around US $5,000, but after several bids from around the world, the watch sold for eight times that estimated value at about $42,000 (HKD $325,000).


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Rotating Bezel Landed on the Dive Watch

Blancpain Original Fifty Fathoms
In the third part of our ongoing series on the basics of the dive watch, we at Diveintowatches.com explained about how its most characteristic feature works. In this edition, we dive a little bit deeper and discover its origins.

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A watch bezel with an added functionality — whether fixed or rotatable — has certainly been neither exclusive to the dive watch nor invented for it: such a bezel can be used for measuring speed, pulse, distance/position, navigation and directions, meeting times, et cetera. At one point, there was even one used to help in quitting smoking. And we need not even mention the buzz-saw functions and other fictional accessories in some of those James Bond movie watches. Various racing and aircraft instruments have also been equipped with rotating markers for quite a while. So, if you wanted a wristwatch with a rotating, external bezel before 1953, you most likely had to buy a timepiece that was used for auto racing or, even more likely, for aviation: pilots’ watches often came equipped with a bi-directional rotating bezel with simple markers.

The concept dates back to 1929, when Philip Van Horn Weems applied for a patent for a wristwatch with a more complex external bezel, which was granted in 1935 and soon found its way on to many pilots’ watches, the most important one being the legendary Weems watch from Longines (other brands using the same lockable bezel included Omega, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Movado and Zenith).


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2014年11月6日星期四

IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia



IWC Portuguese Siderale Scafusia

After ten years of intensive research, IWC has succeeded in uniting solar time with sidereal time, together with astronomical displays, in a single watch.

The front of the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia features the solar time, the sidereal time, power reserve and a very large tourbillon as seconds display.

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The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is not only an impressive sight from the front, but also from the reverse side, with its imprinted night sky and perpetual calendar.

The calendar is shown in the form of a circular cut-out and counts the days of the year continuously: the 1st of January is day 1, the 31st of December day 365; or, in the case of a leap year – indicated by the letters LY, number 366.


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2014年10月26日星期日

Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7

Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7

Another exciting piece just announced by Longines, which is celebrating its 180th anniversary this year and doing so with a number of anniversary pieces (such as 1942 Heritage Chronograph and Monopusher Chronograph 180th Anniversary LE).

This watch is the Longines Avigation Type A-7, inspired by models developed during the 1930s on request of the U.S. Army for its aviators.

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While at the time designated the “Type A-7″ by the U.S. Army, Longines has borrowed from the American military nomenclature to give the modern day interpretation the additional moniker “Avigation”, a mashup of “aviation” and “navigation”.The A-7 is intentionally large in a number of respects: diameter (49mm), fluted crown, and white numerals — the obvious point of which is to enable aviators to easily read and manipulate the watch, even if wearing gloves.

And then there is its angled position (50° to the right) — thus allowing a pilot to read the timepiece without moving his or her arm or letting go of the controls.Inside the watch is a single push-piece chronograph is an L788 calibre, a column-wheel movement developed exclusively for Longines (ETA base).


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2014年10月23日星期四

Fantasy watch creations from Van Cleef & Arpels

Feerie Dandelion watch

As the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) takes place in Geneva (January 21-25), Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled new watch designs for 2013.

The brand’s new collections, which are inspired by fantasy, enchantment and poetry, combine exceptional craftsmanship and original, refined design.

Van Cleef & Arpels has designed its new watch collections to enchant through the inclusion of highly feminine figures such as fairies, butterflies, ballerinas and swallows.

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The most emblematic timepiece unveiled at SIHH 2013 was the Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée (pictured above) featuring a dancer with gold wings carved in relief and set in diamonds. This watch has a dial with a translucent enamel decorated back case, a white gold case and a diamond-set bezel.

As well as this exceptional model’s refined design, the brand has focused on mechanical precision with a movement that shows the time on demand.


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2014年10月14日星期二

Cartier Rotonde Small Complication Watches

Cartier Rotonde Small Complication Watches Now In Steel   watch releases
The world of Cartier has a range of timepiece levels. This includes the brand's "Classics," which represent their more mainstream watches with relatively simple movements, the "Fine Watchmaking" arena of much higher-end complications and haute horology, and finally, the middle area of "Small Complications." This is "small," as opposed to "grand," in the arena of timepieces, where the latter refers to what is much more complex and, of course, expensive. What we can find in the Cartier Rotonde Small Complication watches might be considerable value, especially with the new Rotonde de Cartier watches in steel.

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Not all of these models seen here are brand new, but as we understand it, the steel models are. What you see are two types of Cartier Rotonde Small Complication watch models, with either a date and power reserve indicator, or the more favored big date, dual time, day/night indicator with subsidiary seconds models. So let's focus on that latter line of models which is formally called the Rotonde de Cartier 2 Time Zones Retrograde, Day & Night, Large Date, Small Second - classy title, I know.

In a 42mm wide case available in 18k white gold (with blue dial), 18k pink gold (with white dial), or in steel (with white dial), the Rotonde de Cartier 2 Times Zones Retrograde, Day & Night, Large Date, Small Second watch is a prime example of a Cartier Small Complication model, as it offers information in addition to the time in an interesting way that blends complexity with refinement.

The asymmetric dial has a retrograde second time zone indicator that, at first glance, looks an awful lot like a power reserve indicator. Look closely, and you'll realize it is an hour hand with twelve indicators. Diagonally from it is a day/night indicator that I presume works with the second time zone to indicate AM or PM times. Also on the dial is a subsidiary seconds dial and a big date indicator. The layout is interesting and appears balanced, but it feels as though the second time zone is harder to read than it could be.


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2014年8月27日星期三

Cabestan Nostromo Watch

Cabestan Nostromo Watch   watch releases

For 2010 Cabestan brings us something totally new. A fantastic new design dreamed up by talented watch designer Jean-François Ruchonnet. Yes, of course, the watch is similar to Cabestan's previous model, the Winch Tourbillon Vertical watch - but is actually more affordable (relatively speaking of course). Gone is the tourbillon, complex winch mechanism and double sapphire crystal over the movement on the face of the watch. Also, instead of the fusee chain transmission is a new gear-shaft style transmission. Cabestan watches are incredibly well finished and made. Much of this is thanks to their in-house master technician Eric Coudray. A classic watch maker by all accords who takes incredible pride in his work.

The idea of the Nostromo is be more accessible, mechanically fascinating, and user-friendly. Plus, Cabestan loves the idea of basing the name and design on the spaceship from the classic Alien movie. Time is remarkably easy to read. There are several drums on the dial that are engraved with numerals. These serve to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. There is a fourth drum used to indicate the 50 hour power reserve. Cabestan has included a jumping hour complication to make reading the hours even easier. This is all thanks to the new in-house made and designed Calibre CAB PG 160 manually wound movement. The movement bridges are done in black with much of the mechanics in polished steel. This is to highlight those features. Check out the awesome looking drive-shaft on the right of the dial (it is also viewable through the side right sapphire crystal window). This moves power from the mainspring barrel to the rest of the movement.

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Winding the watch is much more simple that the previous Cabestan watch. The top right capstan is unscrewed and pops out - turning it into a standard crown for winding and adjusting the watch. The Winch Tourbillon Vertical actually (later models) actually came with a separate winch winding unit. The entire watch case (not sure of the dimensions right now, but I would guess no winder than 40mm) is in black PVD coated titanium. Note that presence of the sapphire crystal over the dial and again on the both sides of the watch as well as the rear - for the best view of the movement possible.

One of the coolest parts of the Nostromo watch is what happens to it in the dark. Unlike most watches that just have luminant over the hands and numerals, the Nostromo has SuperLumiNova applied in many places on the movement and on the strap itself. The idea is to have luminant inside of bridges, and in various little areas to create a sensational sense of depth in the dark. Like something right our of a sci-fi universe, the Cabestan Nostromo is meant to wildly glow at night. Cabestan's owner and Ruchonnet feel that this will look really cool in the clubs. The internal luminant seem to be done in black as not to look pale green during the day.

What you are left with is a very cool design and a classically made movement, though its execution is unorthodox. Unlike many brands that offer interesting movements but leave you worried about afters-sales service, Cabestan is a true watch maker, who is there to service their pieces themselves. The Nostromo is due for release very soon with an estimated price of about 150,000 Swiss Francs.


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2014年8月12日星期二

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz Watch

Tag Heuer Formula 1 Quartz Watch For 2010   watch releases
This is the entry level, most basic model in the newly refreshed Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch line up and I love it. I am still swooning over the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Grande Date watch, along with other more recent Formula 1 timepieces. The collection hasn't look this good or fresh since the 1980s.

Pretty much any man can pull of this watch, and the price is hard to beat for the design and quality. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html I would say the only drawback is that it has a quartz movement, but Formula 1 timepieces always have had such movements - it is part of the range's ethos. The Swiss quartz movement on the inside is easy to live with, so deal with it.

The watch case is 41mm wide in steel with a PVD black titanium bezel and crown. This is really a major thing, as older basic Tag Heuer Formula 1 watches had mere plastic bezels. So the last few years of these metal ones has been highly appreciated. The case with its lugless design is really fantastic. The side of the case says "Tag Heuer," and the case is water resistant to 200 meters and has a sapphire crystal. This is really one of our modern classics. Tag Heuer watch collections each have interesting signature elements to them. They do a really good job with features like that, and the Formula 1 pieces are no different.

Unlike some of the "fancier" new Formula 1 watches, this model (ref. WAH1110.BA0858) has a basic three-hand dial (with the date). There are four Arabic numerals in the new font Tag has been using. Dial is black with white indicators and red accents. Just a very well put together design if you ask me.


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As of right now I think that black and olive green are the only colors that this watches in. For that other color see the Tag Heuer Formula 1 Khaki watch here. The watch comes on a steel metal bracelet or rubber strap. Retail price is about $900, but most prices online have the watch costing a bit over $600. Great deal for that. This is quite possibly a perfect everyday casual sport watch.

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2014年8月10日星期日

Greiner Taktlos Erotic Watches



Greiner Taktlos Erotic Watches Make Me Giggle Like A German School Boy (NSFW)   watch releases

Hailing out of Schondorf in Germany (where else would "Schondorf" be?), Greiner is a watch store and workshop. These guys make some delicate hand engraved mechanical watches (that seem like a bit of a waste of time if you are trying to actually sell them). Along with them being quite silly erotic timepieces, they are probably the most amusingly ridiculous erotic watches that I have ever seen (that yes, makes me laugh like my name is Hans and I am in grade school in Rechberghausen!). "Handmade in Schorndorf" baby! My favorite has to be the Taktlos Golf. http://www.demowatch.net/breitling-watches-c-25.html Just an innocent day playing golf looking like a 6th grader drew you, until before you know it, you are "hitting a whole in one with your club" with the caddy over the golf cart.

Some of these watches have a real "workshop feel to them." Others have more refined looks. Greiner uses us a variety of movements and meticulously hand engraves them (probably while sitting over his desk sweating and murmuring to himself "mother, do you like me now?)." I must admit his ability to engrave designs and items, is much better than people and scenes. Though I will give him full respect, as engraving such miniatures is a pain. Though if you are indulging your prurient interests by engraving people engaged in carnal acts while looking under a microscope, you are probably a bit compulsive, and quite weird.

Watch cases come in various sizes depending on the movement and are mostly in 18k gold, or platinum (yes my precious!). The movements enhanced by the addition of gold figurines and often in the dials and case backs around the movement. Crystals are sapphire, and meant to give you a cheeky view into the action (this is seriously what this guy fantasizes about). This is when Gunter winks at you and shows you "zee good times."

Most of Greiner's watches are highly limited, or totally unique. Where DOES he get his ideas? One thing I found fascinating was the watch hands that are sometimes actually two pieces of a woman. The legs being the minute hand, while the torso being the hour hand. Also, most of the watches have an additional pusher on the side of the case. This is to force those golden idols to perform lascivious tasks. Is this how rich billionaires come of age? Quite literally, this is "platinum porn," and of the lowest quality.

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Second best watch here is the Taktlos Car. The dial features our lovers dancing in the moon light to "The Monkeys" while spending time in some third-world beach resort with palm trees and thatch roof huts. Their ride is a classic Volkswagen Beetle (in solid gold!). The watch hands apparently are a naked version of the "I dream of Genie" chick. Turn the Taktlos Car over to find Don Juan over here back at the plantation doing something between... coitus and cunnilingus to his lady on the hood of the Beetle. Most likely the worst car hood on the planet for sex.  Press the pusher on the side of the case for a scene of what can best be described as " Special edition gold-coated Barbie gone wild."

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2014年8月7日星期四

Van Ree Chrono DNA Watch

Van Ree Chrono DNA Watch   watch releases

When I first wrote about Van Ree watches they had a cool concept and a vintage style design. With their second timepiece, Van Ree of Holland offers a more contemporary design to go with their unique concept. The DNA part of the watch name is not just a cool sounding buzzword, these watches actually do have something to do with DNA, your DNA.

The new model for Van Ree is this cool looking Chrono DNA. The first model was called the Personal DNA, and this one has the DNA of a chronograph? Not sure what that is about.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html If you click on the link above you can read all about the Personal DNA. Van Ree collects your DNA, and then uses parts of the genetic code on the watch itself. There is an imprint of the sequence on the rotor, and in acid base form on the periphery the back of the watch. For the Chrono DNA, I think things have been simplified. The graphics around the dial (as well as engraved into the automatic rotor) are meant to resemble the look of a  graphical DNA sequence. Not actually sure in these models are custom, or more mainstream models meant to give the brand more to offer.

Whether or not the Chrono DNA pieces actually have the DNA component, they are nice looking timepieces. In steel, the case is 44mm wide and water resistant to 100 meters. The dials a chic looking and come in light and dark tones. Not sure what the pusher or extra crown over by 10 o'clock is though. Maybe it holds a bit of DNA like in the Personal DNA watch.

Van Ree offers the watch on any number of straps, but they like crocodile or ostrich straps best. Inside the watch is a great movement - being a Zenith El Primero 400 automatic chronograph that runs at 5Hz. Interesting how you see watches here and there with Zenith movements in there.

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While the subdial arrangement on the face looks small, the dial is really easy to read with a style that seems to mix Star Trek and 1945 sport chronograph. Not sure about pricing, but I have a feeling it will be a bit more than I would guess. Oh, and there is also a woman's model of this watch. Not sure the name. It has the same style dial, but with no chronograph in about a 33mm wide steel case with an ETA 2824-2 automatic movement in it.

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2014年8月5日星期二

Patek Philippe Replica Watch

Auction Watch: March 27th Antiquorum Results Show Static Patek Philippe Prices   sales auctions
Last week auction house Antiquorum wrapped-up their recent March auction of "Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” in Geneva. When it was complete the auctions had raised CHF 6,457,937. 83% of the 564 timepieces up for auction were sold. Below are a few of the notable highlights from the auction.

The highlight of the auction, at least as it was touted by Antiquorum, was a private collection of 33 erotic timepieces. That collection by itself was sold for 719,200 CHF, twice what had been officially estimated. The "Musique d'Amour" (lot 187) (seepic here, NSFW) is in addition to being of the erotic variety, is also a musical watch and offers two automaton scenes.It was created by Genevan watchmaker Henry Capt circa 1810. I wonder if he was an ancestor of Edmund Capt (of Valjoux 7750 fame)? This premier erotic timepiece was estimated at CHF 70,000 - 90,000, and sold for CHF 200,500! Apparently this variety of watch exists on its own price/value scale compared to more traditional offerings. Perhaps ironically, many of the watches in this collection were acquired at Antiquorum auctions over the previous 15 years.

The highlight of the auction for me was the Replica Patek Philippe Ref.3939 HP (lot 564). Antiquorum claims that this specific model (see thepic) has only been available at auction five times. This Patek advertises something of a who's who of grail features we in the watch world lust after: one-minute tourbillon, enamel Breguet dial, platinum case, and I think the most impressive, a minute repeater. I certainly don’t want to diminish the effort and art that goes into a tourbillon … but I feel as though the complication’s exclusivity, and to some extent my personal interest, have been cheapened by the fact that every brand North of Fossil seems to offer one now.

The repeater in its various forms is a more interesting complication, with few houses offering them let alone mastering them. In addition to the mechanical artistry, the designers and engineers must conquer the audible world. Repeaters remain more rare and exclusive, and I’m convinced tougher to master. The official estimate for this piece (the aforementioned Patek Philippe Ref.3939 HP) was CHF 400,000 - 500,000. And it sold for 428,500 CHF, right in the middle of the estimate. Now I think that auction houses have a history of, and maybe even an interest in, low-balling their estimates. When an auction result smashes the earlier estimates it is good news. Rather than being impressed at the final hammer price I’m a little disappointed that it did not go for more. This is a wonderful and rare example from one of the finest houses.


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Another item that caught my eye is the Patek Philippe Ref. 2524/1 (lot 543) (see thepic). It’s from 1954, in 18k yellow gold, and only eight examples were ever produced. The estimate of CHF 300,000 - 400,000 again was solid, with the watch ultimately going for CHF 374,500. While not platinum, buyers clearly were impressed by the exclusivity of being one of only eight pieces.

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2014年8月3日星期日

Maurice de Mauriac Summer 2011 Chronograph Modern Watches

Maurice de Mauriac Summer 2011 Chronograph Modern Watches   watch releases
Here is a little watch porn for you in the form of two new Maurice de Mauriac Chronograph Modern watch styles. I have covered the Chronograph Modern watches before but Maurice de Mauriac keeps coming out with upgrades and new styles.http://www.demowatch.net/breitling-watches-c-25.html The first one here is a version of the Le Mans 53 in black with a case fitted alligator strap - really slick. Next is a stealthier version of the Chronograph Modern with a blue chronograph seconds hand and a cool new woven leather strap - much as was done by Bedat & Co.

The Chronograph Modern models come in a variety of styles and sizes that are 39, 42, or 45mm wide. Part of the point of getting a Maurice de Mauriac watch is the customization involved and, ideally, you visit them in Zürich to do so. Prices for these models are 3,650 Swiss Francs for the Le Mans version and 3,950 Swiss Francs for the version with the woven leather strap.

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2014年7月31日星期四

Swiss Army “New” Original Watch

Swiss Army New Original Watch   watch releases
1989 Swiss Army releases their first timepiece. It is called the Original. I have no idea if it was originally called the original. That would be ironic, sort of. It is certainly an icon though. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Everyone has seen this watch. Either on someone’s wrist, in a store, or just online. This is the original Swiss Army watch design… OK, I need to stop saying “original.”

The great thing about the Original is that it is still made and sold today. Holy crap, is this the VW Beetle of timepieces? In a sense it sort of is. Today the original Original retails for about $195 (a bit cheaper online) and still keeps active types happy with its 37mm wide nylon fiber case and easy to read dial with iconic red bezel. Wow, I am suddenly nostalgic for the early 1990s.

Now in 2011 the Victorinox Swiss Army Original watch is back. No, not exactly the same watch, but the new Original, that I think is technically still called the Original. What do we call the original Original? Swiss Army, why do you confuse us so? With the first Original still being sold, just call the new one… something else. OK?

The new Original is pretty nice actually being Swiss Army’s new entry level offering. It is a tool watch with some fashion sense and it is rather affordable being under $300. Up from the original’s 37mm wide case, the modern version is 40mm wide in a nylon fiber case with a colored aluminum bezel. The case is water resistant to 100 meters and finally has a properly sized crown. Pretty sure you get a mineral crystal at this level of Swiss army watch investment, but I could be wrong.


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You’ll notice that Swiss Army matches the bezel color on the dial which is appealing. The dials are brushed metal and have stencil cut style hour markers that add a lot of visual interest. The hands are easy to see and the right size. In contrast to the first original the dial is more sporty and masculine, but feels a bit less “boyish.” It just wouldn’t be a Swiss Army watch without the inner ring of numerals for the 24 hour time scale.

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2014年7月29日星期二

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch

Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch   watch releases

Christopher Ward really does release a lot of new timepieces each year. A few of them are real winners in my opinion. One of those which is interesting is this new C9 Harrison Jumping Hour watch, which is actually the most expensive watch Christopher Ward has every offered at $1,585. Not for everyone,http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html this is a great piece for those who have been fascinated by jumping hour complications - one of the first types of watches to experiment with digital displays.

A jumping hour watch basically has a disc with numerals on it for the hour. This disc "jumps" each hour to show the correct hour digitally. The minutes are still indicated via a traditional analog hand. The idea of this watch is to improve legibility by reducing the confusion that can occur from having two hands to read. The primary feature here is the "jumping" disc which does not slowly move from one hour to another (but rather jumps a whole disc position).

For their jumping hour watch Christopher Ward uses a specially modified Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic with a module they call the JJ001. This means it should work well being based on a reliable work-horse movement. Under the guilloche machine engraved dial sits a large disc that displays the hour indicators using Roman numerals - you usually don't see that as they are often done with Arabic numerals.

Christopher Ward uses a 43mm wide steel case for the C6 Harrison. The case is brushed with a rounded and polished bezel. The dial design is good, with little to distract you, but enough decorative elements to keep it visually appealing. The interesting mixture of modern and classic design elements on the dial is also a welcome refresh given that most watches of this nature are stuck in the past when it comes to looks. Initially the C9 will be available with the silvered dial matched to a Louisiana alligator strap. The watch will also be a limited edition. 

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2014年7月27日星期日

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches

Schofield Signalman GMT Watches   watch releases
For a while I was talking to Giles Ellis as he was in the midst of starting a watch brand. It was interesting to see yet another independent watch brand thrust themselves along supported by one enthusiastic founder faced with a number of challenges. Ellis, and Englishman, wanted a watch that reflected his tastes and ideals.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html For him Schofield is a true Gentleman's brand and offers the types of watches he wants to hear. He has great admiration for both the historic and contemporary English watch makers that are helping to bring horological street cred back to the UK.

Schofield's first pieces are called the Signalman. Two watches, both limited editions, that are offered in a polished steel or matte DLC coated black steel case. The case is pretty interesting and unfortunately doesn't come across super well in these images. I will try to do some hands-on stuff in the future. It is 44mm wide and produced locally in Britain.  While not a diver per se, the watch is water resistant to 500 meters and has a AR coated sapphire crystal.

Signalman refers to a lighthouse. There is actually an engraving of one on the rear of the watch. The shape of the case as I recall is based on a special light used in a powerful lighthouse in England. The dial of the Signalman pieces are well done, and I think Giles spent due time polishing the design. Hands are a good length and it is very legible. There is applied SuperLumiNova for lume.

Not wanting to offer a simple three-hand dialed watch to start, the Signalman GMT watch is imbued with both a subsidiary GMT hand as well as a power reserve indicator (and the date). Schofield nicely designed the power reserve indicator to look linear - something I admire as I tend to not like most of those fan-shaped indicators that can screw up the look of an otherwise balanced dial. Symmetry is king here, and I am a loyal servant of that rule.


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Powering the Signalman GMT is a Swiss Soprod caliber 9335 automatic movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and I believe the GMT hand is adjusted in one hour increments with an inset case pusher. One of Schofield's intended special offerings is a lot of nice straps. They are 24mm wide and will come in a host of styles. Both limited edition pieces the Signalman GMT will be limited to 300 pieces while the DLC version will be limited to 100 pieces. More models to come after that as I understand. Prices will be 2,465 and 2,765 British Pounds (plus VAT if applicable). The brand will be showing at the Salon QP where they will be officially launched.

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