Fiona Krüger Memento Mori Skull Watch

There are skull watches and then there are skull watches like this. Looking like a Mexican "Day of the Dead special" (Dia de Los Muertos), this mechanical skull-shaped watch is full of personality and design talent. Right now it is a one-of-a-kind watch, but there are plans for production in the near future. The watch was designed by Fiona Krüger while she was a design student at the ECAL school in Switzerland (University of art and design Lausanne). Apparently I need to credit both her and the school as she designed the watch while there.

"Memento Mori" isn't a name that hasn't been used before, but a design like this is cool and unique.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html The watch case is literally shaped like a skull. This one has been hand-engraved in solid sterling silver (also the crown). Not sure of the size, but it does not look too small or too large. Interesting touches include the traditional style blued-steel hands and aviator style crown. That combo looks inspired from Peter Speake Marin if you ask me.

The dial itself is where all the fun is. It is a combination of carved, laser-cut, colored, and polished elements that make up the decorative skull motif. The dial materials are gold and rhodium plated brass. The perlage polished plate that makes up the teeth is neat. This is a very interesting combination between designer and mechanical elements. Even the caseback is cool.

Fiona Krüger needed to use a specially cut mineral crystal for this piece because a sapphire one custom-cut for the skull shape would have been too pricey. Though if it makes it to production I am sure they will strive for a sapphire crystal. Inside of the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Attached to the watch is a blue calf leather strap with a silver buckle.

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I love the creativity of stuff like this and am happy that Fiona Krüger is striving to make it a reality. On her website (link above) you can see more images as well as concept art while designing the Memento Mori watch.Replica Tag Heuer monaco watches, Fiona Krüger is also not sure about the price at this time, but I hope it will be relatively affordable.

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Haldimann H9 Reduction Watch

I thoroughly debated on whether or not I should even cover this "watch." It is from a brand called Haldimann - eponymously named after the watch maker Beat Haldimann, and I think the man is playing a rather cruel joke on watch lovers. One press release I saw on the watch wasn't a press release at all, but a rather diplomatic article written by a Swiss journalist based on his reaction to the watch. As a timepiece this item is utterly indefensible - but optimistically creative types will claim that it is some manner of art.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This latter description is probably the kindest thing you can say about this horological insult. I wonder whether or not Beat will next release a pile of screws and gears and call it the "H10 Potential."

Haldimann's H9 watch is called the "Reduction," but to me it is the Revulsion. The watch is "reduced" to a useless tragedy. I should have seen this coming, but perhaps never expected his audacity to go this far. And by audacity I mean it in the American sense... "boldly rude." Please remember that my European friends as you plaster this term all over your speeches and releases. The Haldimann H8 Sculptura watch that preceded the H9 was a step in this direction. The piece (seen below), displayed a centrally mounted tourbillon without an indicator of time. While as a watch it was worthless, it did have some value as a fun thing to look at. I mean that is sort of the point of tourbillon complications - to just see them spinning around. There was a delicate elegance to the H8 that almost made you forgive its rather seditious incompatibility with what watches are all about.

The H9 on the other hand is something entirely futile. It is a luxury watch with a totally opaque sapphire crystal. Let me explain in case the idea isn't clear. Haldimann offers the H9 in a 39mm or 42mm wide solid platinum case. The movement is a nicely made caliber H.Zen-1 manually wound movement with a triple-barrel flying tourbillon... and it is hand engraved. Unlike the H8 it does have and hour and minute hand. Beat's credibility as a watch maker should be enough to ensure that the movement is nicely made. Looking back on earlier "H" collection watches you can see what he is capable of. So after all that he sticks a totally non-transparent black colored domed sapphire crystal over the dial - making it completely obstructed.

Just think about that for a minute. You know, in the luxury watch industry there is the concept of stealth wealth, as well as the concept of hidden luxury that is displayed only to the person wearing the watch. These are meant for connoisseurs who don't wish to flaunt their wealth or items. This watch takes that concept further than it was ever meant to go. Beat will tell you "well you can hear the movement operating through the case." OK, that is cool. So if you wanted to make an art watch that has an opaque crystal where you can only hear the watch working, then I suggest you throw in the most basic of mechanical movements rather than something you actually want to see. According to the brand, "time can thus be imagined, dreamed, or invented." I just threw up in my mouth a little bit - this watch retails for over 150,000 Swiss Francs.


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Any one who wears this watch has got to be like the title character in the Emperor's New Clothes. Haldimann will have totally tricked them into thinking that this is some meaningful piece of art and a poetic testament to the ephemeral nature of time. Though everyone really feels like it is a vapid concept but is likely too afraid to say anything. The real tragedy is that under the black crystal is probably a pretty nice watch, but that hardly matters right? This watch makes a lot more sense as an April fool's day joke. In fact I wish I would have thought of it myself. As a serious timepiece the H9 Reduction is simply confounding. It is OK, don't be afraid to call it out for what you feel that it is.

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Dent Ministry Chronograph Watch

I haven't covered the watch brand Dent in quite some time, but wanted to bring your attention to this attractive chronograph model made by the brand whose name goes back to the maker of London's Big Ben clock. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This piece is called the Dent Ministry Chronograph, and while not a totally original design, is very well-proportioned and attractive.

The Ministry is a larger range collection for the brand with at least three different model types. The chronograph model has a 43mm wide case with a thick sloped bezel and case. There are rings engraved into the side of the case to help reduce visual mass, and the square chronograph pushers help even out the look.

The Ministry Chronograph dial is almost minimalist, but in a very elegant way. The design is good, offering key elements of style without going overboard. The dials of course are inspired by classic Dent pocket watches. This is essentially a sport watch in a sport jacket. The large, legible dial nevertheless has applied Roman numerals and easy to see hands. Hands which are traditional in style (and blued on the silver and cream dial versions).

Inset chronograph subdials with a hint of texture offer exactly the right amount of decor and sense of dial depth. The hands are the right length, which really (really) helps the dial look its best. Too short hands on a watch like this would have totally killed it for me. Right now Dent offers three versions of the Ministry Chronograph, with black, silver, or cream dials.

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These go along with the three case materials, which are 18k rose gold, platinum (with the black dial), and steel (with the silver dial). For some reason, Dent calls two of the watches the Dent Ministry Chronograph, but the steel version is the Dent Ministry Evolution. Not sure why that is as the pieces are the same save for the case material. Inside the watches is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph than Dent refers to as their caliber 301.

I really like the straps on these watches. They look thick and soft, each being alligator. The integration of the straps right to the case is proper. All in all, these are handsome timepieces with a good spirit and design that most people can get behind. Mix in a fancy sounding brand that most watch lovers haven't even heard about and I think you have a pretty cool watch. Prices however are on the steeper side. 

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Richard Mille RM032 Dark Diver Chronograph Watch

Let's face it, there are not many brands like Richard Mille. They are effectively the Pagani Automobili of the watch world as they have consistently pushed the limits and interaction of materials, technology, and design. Richard Mille is famous for their use of massively complex skeleton movements, curved tonneau cases, and exotic materials. Some readers will remember the RM056 model which was launched at BaselWorld this year featuring a case made of sapphire crystal and sporting a $1.65m price tag.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Regardless of your opinion of their watches, you have to admire their drive to make unbelievable products with truly stratospheric prices.

Consider the RM027 which features a tourbillon movement and a case made of a high-carbon composite that weighs only 13g (without its strap) and can actually float when placed in water (read more here). The RM027 carries a price tag in excess of $550,000 and is perhaps most famously known as the watch worn by tennis star Rafael Nadal. I like Richard Mille watches for the same reason I like the many iterations of the Pagani Zonda, they're insane, dramatic, and an interesting point of overlap between the passions of technology and design.

For those that don't quite have a half million dollars (or more) just lying around, perhaps a limited edition of the RM032 Dive Chronograph will do? The new Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is packaged in a massive 50 x 17.8mm case so only those with a wrist to match their wallet should apply. The case is made of titanium which has been treated to a black DLC finish and matches nicely with the skeleton view of the RMAC2 chronograph movement. The RMAC2 is an automatically winding chronograph movement with flyback capability, an annual calendar, and a pinwheel-style running indicator which spins when the chronograph is active. In typical Richard Mille fashion, the movement is viewable from both the front and back of the watch via sapphire crystals and the movement itself makes up the majority of the dial.

Featuring the same pusher locking system seen in the original RM032 Dive Chronograph we showed you here, turning the inner ring around the crown locks both the crown and pushers from use and secures the watch for dives of up to 300m. Similar to the locking system seen in much of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor range, the Richard Mille system offers an easy and visually verifiable way of locking its controls, not only for water resistance but also to ensure that the measure taken by the watch cannot be interrupted while diving. As cool as this system, and indeed the entire RM032 Dark Diver is, I doubt that many buyers will take such a watch diving, let alone to great depths.

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The Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is both undeniably cool and almost completely impractical. The original RM032 carried a price tag of $125,000 and the Dark Diver, being limited to just 30 pieces, will cost only $140,000 USD. Just like a top-tier supercar, a Richard Mille should be prohibitively expensive, the price is part of the attraction for a sensational product like the RM032. Pricing aside, the Dark Diver is very large and tonally quite boisterous, but I suppose that is the point of a watch like this. Regardless of the fact that I will never own one, I love Richard Mille watches as they represent the cutting edge, a product of one of the dynamic elements within modern watch making. Surprisingly, there is a lot of competition to be found at the six figure price point, but Richard Mille is doing as they please and the RM032 certainly won't be confused for a similarly priced Patek, Lange or Opus.

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Sinn & Paul Parey Limited Edition Hunting Watch

Sinn has announced the release of a limited edition chronograph in partnership with Paul Parey publishing. For those not in the know (myself included), http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Paul Parey is a German publisher of a wide range of hunting and fishing magazines. Sinn has essentially customized their excellent 756 chronograph with a dark green dial and earthy brown strap to make a hunting watch.

Hunters can be subjected to a wide range of environmental extremes so I think a Sinn fits nicely into the hunter/woodsman ethos. They are tough, no-nonsense, reliable and legible timepieces that are not meant to be safe queens, I can think of few better watches for the active outdoors type. Many of the military-ready qualities which Sinn incorporates into their watches are also of value to hunters and anglers alike.

While not specifically referenced, the Sinn Paul Parey Hunting Watch does appear to be a standard reference 756 which is built on a 40 x 14mm tegimented steel case and fitted with an AR coated sapphire crystal, ETA/Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, and an aviation inspired dial with a vertical bi-compax layout. Additionally, the 756 is water resistant to 200m and boasts considerable anti-magnetic protection (80,000 A/m) and shock resistance.

The 756 is one of those watches that ticks every "sport watch" box but still manages to cost less than you might guess. The base Sinn 756 on a leather strap can be had for $2400 USD. This new hunting version will be limited to 100 units  and is being sold directly through a specialized website (found here, in German) for € 1,990.00 ($2570 USD). For a limited edition with a lovely green dial and two strap options, an increase of only $140 USD is quite reasonable. I think they should have given it a better name like "The Hunter", or the "Sinn 756 Hunter". Regardless of the name, the Sinn Paul Parey Hunting Watch is a cool and attractive limited edition variant to the standard Sinn 756.

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Cartier Calibre Chronograph Watch

In 2010 Cartier released a brand new collection of men's watches called the Calibre. It was rather revolutionary for the brand for a couple of reasons, bringing Cartier's men's collection into the 21st Century. It was also a mass produced watch that contained an in-house made Cartier movement - something that previously only existed in their most high-end pieces.

I knew the Calibre would be a hit from the start when I first discussed it here. It was handsome, the right size, and very much what a modern guy wanted in a Cartier Replica Watch. Sure models like the Santos and Roadster would always be popular, but I think Cartier needed something with a little sport in it as well as pizzazz. Since 2010 Cartier has trickled out variations on the original design by adding a bracelet option in 2011, and for 2012 there is a chronograph. For a full hands-on review on the original Cartier watch (on the bracelet) see this article.

It wasn't difficult to predict that Cartier would build upon the Calibre watch with new models and features over the years. In fact, the Calibre case is used in many of their much higher-end pieces as well. Though those models are distinct from the basic Calibre models because they target vastly different price demographics. This Cartier Calibre Chronograph is the second version of the "mainstream luxury" Calibre watch collection. The case design is unchanged from the original save for the addition of the chronograph pushers.

Cartier inserted chronograph pushers into the extended crown structure, which look extremely elegant. In fact, if you look at the three-hand version of the Calibre you'll notice that area which now contains the chronograph pushers appears as though it was designed from the beginning with a plan that pushers would eventually be there. That is probably the case actually. For 2012 the Calibre Chronograph will be available in a 42mm wide steel or 18k pink gold case - and a bracelet or strap option is available from the outset.

The chronograph will be a bi-compax chronograph that measures a full 12 hours. That means the watch will have no running seconds hand, unless you have the chronograph function going all the time. The dial has been redesigned to incorporate the subdials, and is finally totally symmetrical. Cartier also moved the minute scale ring out to the flange ring - an area that was previously bare with just a brushed metal finish. This changes the look of the watch and also has the effect of making the dial appear larger. The dial is now able to have larger, more distinct hour markers, which once again take the form of half Roman numerals and half baton markers (is this Cartier's version of a California dial?). You have the same type of decor on the dial, but everything feels more grounded given the symmetrical design. Cartier retained the "expanded" date window, but moved it to 6 o'clock. All in all I like the dial a lot, but one again feel that Cartier designed the main hands to be a bit too short.

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Inside the watch is a new movement which builds upon the in-house made Cartier 1904 MC. The new movement is conveniently named the 1904-CH MC. It is an automatic with a column wheel-based chronograph and 48 hours of power reserve. Once again the movement is very visually appealing in terms of design and decor. I love that little Cartier "C" shaped part of the balance wheels fine adjuster. You can see the movement through the sapphire exhibition caseback window.

Detailing on the Calibre Chronograph is quite nice and it is a great way to enjoy the little touches Cartier offers (good bracelet, sapphire crystal cabochon, and good look dial) in a more sporty package. I anticipate new colors and variations for the Calibre Chronograph in the years to come, but right now these options are rather attractive. The Calibre Chronograph isn't a perfect design, but it is very nice. I anticipate that the price for the steel version on the bracelet will be in the vicinity of $10,000. The Cartier Calibre Chronograph will officially debut at SIHH 2013, after which I can share a hands-on experience with you.

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Cartier Crash Watch Returns

This is one of those irresistible stories to discuss no matter how many times it has been told or how morbid the details. It involves Cartier, one of the most mysterious and popular watch and jewelry brands on the planet, and stories like this make watch collecting worth the money.

A few years ago I noticed a vintage Cartier watch that looked as though it had been melted. I barely believed it was real. It didn't have a name or details, but I realized something must have been special about it. I later learned that it was a Cartier Crash Replica Watch. Originally produced in 1967 and later in the early 1990s as a limited edition, this extremely rare watch is a testament to emotion influencing design and the oddity that is the luxury world. Cartier will release a new limited edition collection of the Crash watch for 2013 as a high-end jewelry piece on a bracelet. While this new edition is a vast departure from the theme of the original, it is interesting to see Cartier continue the legend of the Crash.

Apparently in England "crash" is another term for car accident. Which is exactly what seeded the design of the watch. In the mid 1960s, Cartier's vice president was in London and died in a car accident. The crash caused a fire which burned his body and the Cartier watch that he was wearing at the time. The piece burning on his wrist happened to be the tall and oblong-shaped Bagnoire Alongee. The watch survived - well sort of. It is sort of morbid that after the event, Cartier took great interest in what happened to the watch that was on the corpse's wrist, though I supposed I would too. They inspected it carefully and found that the case had melted as though it was in a Dali painting. Whether it was enough LSD or a deep emotional connection to the now-deceased vice president, Cartier decided to produce a watch that looked like the melted Bagnoire Alongee. It of course became the Cartier Crash - a super strange watch for men that fit perfectly into the art scene of the era. For a bit more history you can consult this article by Richard Paige who was the guy who originally founded Timezone.

Fast forward to now and the Crash becomes an avant garde ladies watch with diamonds on a gold bracelet. Not exactly the logical extension of the collection, but a fittingly unique product to keep attention on Cartier in 2013. The original gold model on a simple leather strap is now fitted with an 18k pink or white gold "tear-drop link" bracelet for women of high means. While the bracelet is optionally covered in diamonds, all versions of the 2013 limited edition are diamond covered. This is a bit unfortunate because the diamond decor on the case hides some of the more interesting "melted" details of the original. The "dripping" look of the case remains, but the 2013 version is far more polished and clean looking than the quirky originals. Also note how the original indicated the origin of the watch to be London (due to the office there at the time), while the modern versions simply attach the typical "Swiss Made" marker to the dial.

Larger than the original, the 2013 Cartier Crash watches will be 25.5mm wide by 38.45mm tall. Inside will be manually wound mechanical movements and the entire 2013 collection will be limited to 267 pieces per model with the standard bracelet and 67 pieces with the fully diamond covered bracelet. All in gold with either 2.15 or 4.27 carats of stones, this watch is a showpiece available only in special Cartier boutiques, and often via special order only.

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Cartier is fully aware that a watch like this (especially at its price point) is a niche model to say the least. Though inherent to its strange history is an authenticity and sense of heritage that brands need in order to continue to appeal to the general consumer. Cartier especially has done a remarkable job of coming out with interesting and exclusive pieces year after year to supplement their larger base of more mass produced watches and jewelry products. That makes it a pleasure to keep an eye on what they do and discuss oddities with real character like the Crash.

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