Swiss Army “New” Original Watch

1989 Swiss Army releases their first timepiece. It is called the Original. I have no idea if it was originally called the original. That would be ironic, sort of. It is certainly an icon though. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Everyone has seen this watch. Either on someone’s wrist, in a store, or just online. This is the original Swiss Army watch design… OK, I need to stop saying “original.”

The great thing about the Original is that it is still made and sold today. Holy crap, is this the VW Beetle of timepieces? In a sense it sort of is. Today the original Original retails for about $195 (a bit cheaper online) and still keeps active types happy with its 37mm wide nylon fiber case and easy to read dial with iconic red bezel. Wow, I am suddenly nostalgic for the early 1990s.

Now in 2011 the Victorinox Swiss Army Original watch is back. No, not exactly the same watch, but the new Original, that I think is technically still called the Original. What do we call the original Original? Swiss Army, why do you confuse us so? With the first Original still being sold, just call the new one… something else. OK?

The new Original is pretty nice actually being Swiss Army’s new entry level offering. It is a tool watch with some fashion sense and it is rather affordable being under $300. Up from the original’s 37mm wide case, the modern version is 40mm wide in a nylon fiber case with a colored aluminum bezel. The case is water resistant to 100 meters and finally has a properly sized crown. Pretty sure you get a mineral crystal at this level of Swiss army watch investment, but I could be wrong.


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You’ll notice that Swiss Army matches the bezel color on the dial which is appealing. The dials are brushed metal and have stencil cut style hour markers that add a lot of visual interest. The hands are easy to see and the right size. In contrast to the first original the dial is more sporty and masculine, but feels a bit less “boyish.” It just wouldn’t be a Swiss Army watch without the inner ring of numerals for the 24 hour time scale.

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Christopher Ward C9 Harrison Jumping Hour Watch

Christopher Ward really does release a lot of new timepieces each year. A few of them are real winners in my opinion. One of those which is interesting is this new C9 Harrison Jumping Hour watch, which is actually the most expensive watch Christopher Ward has every offered at $1,585. Not for everyone,http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html this is a great piece for those who have been fascinated by jumping hour complications - one of the first types of watches to experiment with digital displays.

A jumping hour watch basically has a disc with numerals on it for the hour. This disc "jumps" each hour to show the correct hour digitally. The minutes are still indicated via a traditional analog hand. The idea of this watch is to improve legibility by reducing the confusion that can occur from having two hands to read. The primary feature here is the "jumping" disc which does not slowly move from one hour to another (but rather jumps a whole disc position).

For their jumping hour watch Christopher Ward uses a specially modified Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic with a module they call the JJ001. This means it should work well being based on a reliable work-horse movement. Under the guilloche machine engraved dial sits a large disc that displays the hour indicators using Roman numerals - you usually don't see that as they are often done with Arabic numerals.

Christopher Ward uses a 43mm wide steel case for the C6 Harrison. The case is brushed with a rounded and polished bezel. The dial design is good, with little to distract you, but enough decorative elements to keep it visually appealing. The interesting mixture of modern and classic design elements on the dial is also a welcome refresh given that most watches of this nature are stuck in the past when it comes to looks. Initially the C9 will be available with the silvered dial matched to a Louisiana alligator strap. The watch will also be a limited edition. 

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Schofield Signalman GMT Watches

For a while I was talking to Giles Ellis as he was in the midst of starting a watch brand. It was interesting to see yet another independent watch brand thrust themselves along supported by one enthusiastic founder faced with a number of challenges. Ellis, and Englishman, wanted a watch that reflected his tastes and ideals.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html For him Schofield is a true Gentleman's brand and offers the types of watches he wants to hear. He has great admiration for both the historic and contemporary English watch makers that are helping to bring horological street cred back to the UK.

Schofield's first pieces are called the Signalman. Two watches, both limited editions, that are offered in a polished steel or matte DLC coated black steel case. The case is pretty interesting and unfortunately doesn't come across super well in these images. I will try to do some hands-on stuff in the future. It is 44mm wide and produced locally in Britain.  While not a diver per se, the watch is water resistant to 500 meters and has a AR coated sapphire crystal.

Signalman refers to a lighthouse. There is actually an engraving of one on the rear of the watch. The shape of the case as I recall is based on a special light used in a powerful lighthouse in England. The dial of the Signalman pieces are well done, and I think Giles spent due time polishing the design. Hands are a good length and it is very legible. There is applied SuperLumiNova for lume.

Not wanting to offer a simple three-hand dialed watch to start, the Signalman GMT watch is imbued with both a subsidiary GMT hand as well as a power reserve indicator (and the date). Schofield nicely designed the power reserve indicator to look linear - something I admire as I tend to not like most of those fan-shaped indicators that can screw up the look of an otherwise balanced dial. Symmetry is king here, and I am a loyal servant of that rule.


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Powering the Signalman GMT is a Swiss Soprod caliber 9335 automatic movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours and I believe the GMT hand is adjusted in one hour increments with an inset case pusher. One of Schofield's intended special offerings is a lot of nice straps. They are 24mm wide and will come in a host of styles. Both limited edition pieces the Signalman GMT will be limited to 300 pieces while the DLC version will be limited to 100 pieces. More models to come after that as I understand. Prices will be 2,465 and 2,765 British Pounds (plus VAT if applicable). The brand will be showing at the Salon QP where they will be officially launched.

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Fiona Krüger Memento Mori Skull Watch

There are skull watches and then there are skull watches like this. Looking like a Mexican "Day of the Dead special" (Dia de Los Muertos), this mechanical skull-shaped watch is full of personality and design talent. Right now it is a one-of-a-kind watch, but there are plans for production in the near future. The watch was designed by Fiona Krüger while she was a design student at the ECAL school in Switzerland (University of art and design Lausanne). Apparently I need to credit both her and the school as she designed the watch while there.

"Memento Mori" isn't a name that hasn't been used before, but a design like this is cool and unique.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html The watch case is literally shaped like a skull. This one has been hand-engraved in solid sterling silver (also the crown). Not sure of the size, but it does not look too small or too large. Interesting touches include the traditional style blued-steel hands and aviator style crown. That combo looks inspired from Peter Speake Marin if you ask me.

The dial itself is where all the fun is. It is a combination of carved, laser-cut, colored, and polished elements that make up the decorative skull motif. The dial materials are gold and rhodium plated brass. The perlage polished plate that makes up the teeth is neat. This is a very interesting combination between designer and mechanical elements. Even the caseback is cool.

Fiona Krüger needed to use a specially cut mineral crystal for this piece because a sapphire one custom-cut for the skull shape would have been too pricey. Though if it makes it to production I am sure they will strive for a sapphire crystal. Inside of the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. Attached to the watch is a blue calf leather strap with a silver buckle.

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I love the creativity of stuff like this and am happy that Fiona Krüger is striving to make it a reality. On her website (link above) you can see more images as well as concept art while designing the Memento Mori watch.Replica Tag Heuer monaco watches, Fiona Krüger is also not sure about the price at this time, but I hope it will be relatively affordable.

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Haldimann H9 Reduction Watch

I thoroughly debated on whether or not I should even cover this "watch." It is from a brand called Haldimann - eponymously named after the watch maker Beat Haldimann, and I think the man is playing a rather cruel joke on watch lovers. One press release I saw on the watch wasn't a press release at all, but a rather diplomatic article written by a Swiss journalist based on his reaction to the watch. As a timepiece this item is utterly indefensible - but optimistically creative types will claim that it is some manner of art.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This latter description is probably the kindest thing you can say about this horological insult. I wonder whether or not Beat will next release a pile of screws and gears and call it the "H10 Potential."

Haldimann's H9 watch is called the "Reduction," but to me it is the Revulsion. The watch is "reduced" to a useless tragedy. I should have seen this coming, but perhaps never expected his audacity to go this far. And by audacity I mean it in the American sense... "boldly rude." Please remember that my European friends as you plaster this term all over your speeches and releases. The Haldimann H8 Sculptura watch that preceded the H9 was a step in this direction. The piece (seen below), displayed a centrally mounted tourbillon without an indicator of time. While as a watch it was worthless, it did have some value as a fun thing to look at. I mean that is sort of the point of tourbillon complications - to just see them spinning around. There was a delicate elegance to the H8 that almost made you forgive its rather seditious incompatibility with what watches are all about.

The H9 on the other hand is something entirely futile. It is a luxury watch with a totally opaque sapphire crystal. Let me explain in case the idea isn't clear. Haldimann offers the H9 in a 39mm or 42mm wide solid platinum case. The movement is a nicely made caliber H.Zen-1 manually wound movement with a triple-barrel flying tourbillon... and it is hand engraved. Unlike the H8 it does have and hour and minute hand. Beat's credibility as a watch maker should be enough to ensure that the movement is nicely made. Looking back on earlier "H" collection watches you can see what he is capable of. So after all that he sticks a totally non-transparent black colored domed sapphire crystal over the dial - making it completely obstructed.

Just think about that for a minute. You know, in the luxury watch industry there is the concept of stealth wealth, as well as the concept of hidden luxury that is displayed only to the person wearing the watch. These are meant for connoisseurs who don't wish to flaunt their wealth or items. This watch takes that concept further than it was ever meant to go. Beat will tell you "well you can hear the movement operating through the case." OK, that is cool. So if you wanted to make an art watch that has an opaque crystal where you can only hear the watch working, then I suggest you throw in the most basic of mechanical movements rather than something you actually want to see. According to the brand, "time can thus be imagined, dreamed, or invented." I just threw up in my mouth a little bit - this watch retails for over 150,000 Swiss Francs.


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Any one who wears this watch has got to be like the title character in the Emperor's New Clothes. Haldimann will have totally tricked them into thinking that this is some meaningful piece of art and a poetic testament to the ephemeral nature of time. Though everyone really feels like it is a vapid concept but is likely too afraid to say anything. The real tragedy is that under the black crystal is probably a pretty nice watch, but that hardly matters right? This watch makes a lot more sense as an April fool's day joke. In fact I wish I would have thought of it myself. As a serious timepiece the H9 Reduction is simply confounding. It is OK, don't be afraid to call it out for what you feel that it is.

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Dent Ministry Chronograph Watch

I haven't covered the watch brand Dent in quite some time, but wanted to bring your attention to this attractive chronograph model made by the brand whose name goes back to the maker of London's Big Ben clock. http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html This piece is called the Dent Ministry Chronograph, and while not a totally original design, is very well-proportioned and attractive.

The Ministry is a larger range collection for the brand with at least three different model types. The chronograph model has a 43mm wide case with a thick sloped bezel and case. There are rings engraved into the side of the case to help reduce visual mass, and the square chronograph pushers help even out the look.

The Ministry Chronograph dial is almost minimalist, but in a very elegant way. The design is good, offering key elements of style without going overboard. The dials of course are inspired by classic Dent pocket watches. This is essentially a sport watch in a sport jacket. The large, legible dial nevertheless has applied Roman numerals and easy to see hands. Hands which are traditional in style (and blued on the silver and cream dial versions).

Inset chronograph subdials with a hint of texture offer exactly the right amount of decor and sense of dial depth. The hands are the right length, which really (really) helps the dial look its best. Too short hands on a watch like this would have totally killed it for me. Right now Dent offers three versions of the Ministry Chronograph, with black, silver, or cream dials.

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These go along with the three case materials, which are 18k rose gold, platinum (with the black dial), and steel (with the silver dial). For some reason, Dent calls two of the watches the Dent Ministry Chronograph, but the steel version is the Dent Ministry Evolution. Not sure why that is as the pieces are the same save for the case material. Inside the watches is a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph than Dent refers to as their caliber 301.

I really like the straps on these watches. They look thick and soft, each being alligator. The integration of the straps right to the case is proper. All in all, these are handsome timepieces with a good spirit and design that most people can get behind. Mix in a fancy sounding brand that most watch lovers haven't even heard about and I think you have a pretty cool watch. Prices however are on the steeper side. 

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Richard Mille RM032 Dark Diver Chronograph Watch

Let's face it, there are not many brands like Richard Mille. They are effectively the Pagani Automobili of the watch world as they have consistently pushed the limits and interaction of materials, technology, and design. Richard Mille is famous for their use of massively complex skeleton movements, curved tonneau cases, and exotic materials. Some readers will remember the RM056 model which was launched at BaselWorld this year featuring a case made of sapphire crystal and sporting a $1.65m price tag.http://www.demowatch.net/tag-heuer-watches-c-43.html Regardless of your opinion of their watches, you have to admire their drive to make unbelievable products with truly stratospheric prices.

Consider the RM027 which features a tourbillon movement and a case made of a high-carbon composite that weighs only 13g (without its strap) and can actually float when placed in water (read more here). The RM027 carries a price tag in excess of $550,000 and is perhaps most famously known as the watch worn by tennis star Rafael Nadal. I like Richard Mille watches for the same reason I like the many iterations of the Pagani Zonda, they're insane, dramatic, and an interesting point of overlap between the passions of technology and design.

For those that don't quite have a half million dollars (or more) just lying around, perhaps a limited edition of the RM032 Dive Chronograph will do? The new Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is packaged in a massive 50 x 17.8mm case so only those with a wrist to match their wallet should apply. The case is made of titanium which has been treated to a black DLC finish and matches nicely with the skeleton view of the RMAC2 chronograph movement. The RMAC2 is an automatically winding chronograph movement with flyback capability, an annual calendar, and a pinwheel-style running indicator which spins when the chronograph is active. In typical Richard Mille fashion, the movement is viewable from both the front and back of the watch via sapphire crystals and the movement itself makes up the majority of the dial.

Featuring the same pusher locking system seen in the original RM032 Dive Chronograph we showed you here, turning the inner ring around the crown locks both the crown and pushers from use and secures the watch for dives of up to 300m. Similar to the locking system seen in much of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor range, the Richard Mille system offers an easy and visually verifiable way of locking its controls, not only for water resistance but also to ensure that the measure taken by the watch cannot be interrupted while diving. As cool as this system, and indeed the entire RM032 Dark Diver is, I doubt that many buyers will take such a watch diving, let alone to great depths.

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The Richard Mille 032 Dark Diver Chronograph is both undeniably cool and almost completely impractical. The original RM032 carried a price tag of $125,000 and the Dark Diver, being limited to just 30 pieces, will cost only $140,000 USD. Just like a top-tier supercar, a Richard Mille should be prohibitively expensive, the price is part of the attraction for a sensational product like the RM032. Pricing aside, the Dark Diver is very large and tonally quite boisterous, but I suppose that is the point of a watch like this. Regardless of the fact that I will never own one, I love Richard Mille watches as they represent the cutting edge, a product of one of the dynamic elements within modern watch making. Surprisingly, there is a lot of competition to be found at the six figure price point, but Richard Mille is doing as they please and the RM032 certainly won't be confused for a similarly priced Patek, Lange or Opus.

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